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St. Ann is full of rivers and gardens, thus its well-deserved nickname, “the garden parish.” Locals will pronounce Ocho Rios as any incarnation from oh-cho ree-os to oh-cho ryhas or, most commonly, simply “Ochi.” Ochi is the biggest town in St. Ann; its name is a creative derivation of the Spanish name for the area, Las Chorreras (Cascades), in reference to the abundance of waterfalls. Before the Spanish conquest, the area was known as Maguana by the Tainos. There are indeed several rivers in the vicinity, but not necessarily eight as a literal translation of the Spanish name might suggest. Four major waterways flow through the town area of Ocho Rios: Turtle River, Milford River, Russell Hall River, and Dairy Spring River. Just east of town are Salt River and White River, the latter forming the border with St. Mary, and to the west is the famous Dunn’s River, Jamaica's top tourist attraction.
Tourism became important in Ocho Rios in the late 1970s, taking over for bauxite as the area’s chief earner. The old Reynolds Pier just west of town is now used to export limestone aggregates, the industrial wharf sharing a small bay with the town’s cruise ship terminal. The cruise ship industry has been a key component of the city’s tourism boom, bringing mixed results. The steady income is appreciated by many businesses, especially those concentrated around the pier, but the enormous volume of passengers flowing through each day creates a huge demand for services that has not been met with adequate housing for the thousands who have arrived to work the tourism sector over the past few decades. Many of these arrivals are professionals who have been given little choice but to resort to living in squatter settlements. Still others come to Ochi with few credentials and earn their living hustling any way they can, making harassment of tourists a widespread problem.
Just west of Ocho Rios is St. Ann’s Bay, on the outskirts of which the first Spanish capital was established at Sevilla la Nueva, or New Seville. Today Seville is an archeological site and Great House complex where several heritage events are held throughout the year. Farther west along the coast are the communities of Runaway Bay and Discovery Bay. Runaway Bay is a small town with a golf course, a few resorts, and a small commercial strip along the highway, whereas Discovery Bay is likely Jamaica’s most exclusive villa enclave—where rentals go for upwards of US$10,000 per week. Again the tourism offering stands in the shadow of one of the island's largest bauxite terminals operated by US-based Noranda. The large domed storage facility attached to the wharf by a conveyor belt was cast as Dr. No's lair in Ian Fleming's first James Bond film.
Beach j’ouvert, part of the carnival season’s festivi- ties, is held at James Bond Beach in Oracabessa in early April, where revelers whine out to soca and throw paint on each other, with after-par- ties spilling into Ocho Rios.
(US tel. 323/857-5358 or 866/649-2137) is held at various venues, from Kingston to Ocho Rios to Port Antonio over the course of seven days, starting around the second week in June. The festival features a few dozen local and international jazz acts.
Amnesia (US$3–7, cash only) is Ochi's most authentic, down-market Jamaican nightclub. Thursday is Ladies' Night and gets quite busy, with a regular after-work jam and occasional deejay performances on Fridays. Muddy Mondays features mud wrestling.
Roof Club (James Ave., no phone) is another typical Jamaican club with a bar and plenty of whining to go around. The club gets busy on weekends.
Margaritaville (9 a.m.–4 a.m. on club nights Mon., Wed., and Sat. and 9 a.m.–10 p.m. on Sun., Tues., Thurs., and Fri.) is Ochi's most popular club with the tourist crowd. This is one of Jimmy Buffet's chains, and it sees a lot of debauchery--the pool party on Wednesdays attracts a large crowd. It's also a venu for Fame FM's annual road party, which takes radio disc jocks to various venues around the island over the course of several weeks.
The Runaways Sports Bar & Grill (7am-3am daily, US$9-36) is a cool local joint on top of a four-story no-frills hotel in the easternmost of Runaway Bay's little shopping plazas in Salem district . The roof has a small swimming pool, two billiards tables, and flat-screen TVs linked with satellite feed for major sports broadcasts. The bar serves domestic beers and mixed drinks, with the kitchen serving breakfast items like ackee and saltfish and fried chicken, steam fish.