Ocho Rios and the Central North Coast

Attractions

St. Ann is full of rivers and gardens, thus its well-deserved nickname, “the garden parish.” Locals will pronounce Ocho Rios as any incarnation from oh-cho ree-os to oh-cho ryhas or, most commonly, simply “Ochi.” Ochi is the biggest town in St. Ann; its name is a creative derivation of the Spanish name for the area, Las Chorreras (Cascades), in reference to the abundance of waterfalls. Before the Spanish conquest, the area was known as Maguana by the Tainos. There are indeed several rivers in the vicinity, but not necessarily eight as a literal translation of the Spanish name might suggest. Four major waterways flow through the town area of Ocho Rios: Turtle River, Milford River, Russell Hall River, and Dairy Spring River. Just east of town are Salt River and White River, the latter forming the border with St. Mary, and to the west is the famous Dunn’s River, Jamaica's top tourist attraction.

Tourism became important in Ocho Rios in the late 1970s, taking over for bauxite as the area’s chief earner. The old Reynolds Pier just west of town is now used to export limestone aggregates, the industrial wharf sharing a small bay with the town’s cruise ship terminal. The cruise ship industry has been a key component of the city’s tourism boom, bringing mixed results. The steady income is appreciated by many businesses, especially those concentrated around the pier, but the enormous volume of passengers flowing through each day creates a huge demand for services that has not been met with adequate housing for the thousands who have arrived to work the tourism sector over the past few decades. Many of these arrivals are professionals who have been given little choice but to resort to living in squatter settlements. Still others come to Ochi with few credentials and earn their living hustling any way they can, making harassment of tourists a widespread problem.

Just west of Ocho Rios is St. Ann’s Bay, on the outskirts of which the first Spanish capital was established at Sevilla la Nueva, or New Seville. Today Seville is an archeological site and Great House complex where several heritage events are held throughout the year. Farther west along the coast are the communities of Runaway Bay and Discovery Bay. Runaway Bay is a small town with a golf course, a few resorts, and a small commercial strip along the highway, whereas Discovery Bay is likely Jamaica’s most exclusive villa enclave—where rentals go for upwards of US$10,000 per week. Again the tourism offering stands in the shadow of one of the island's largest bauxite terminals operated by US-based Noranda. The large domed storage facility attached to the wharf by a conveyor belt was cast as Dr. No's lair in Ian Fleming's first James Bond film.

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Ocho Rios Bay Beach

Ocho Rios Bay Beach (US$5), also known as Turtle Beach, dominates the shorefront area in the heart of town. Moon Palace Jamaica Grande has roped off a large piece of the beach on the eastern side of the bay, while Turtle Towers and Fisherman’s Point share the western end with the public beach park and Marina at the end.

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Bamboo Beach Club

One of the best beaches in the vicinity, previously known as Reggae Beach, is Bamboo Beach Club (2 minutes east of White River, St. Mary (8am-6pm Mon.-Thurs., 9am-midnight Fri.-Sun., day pass from US$11). The private enclave caters mostly to cruise ship passengers with admission fees ranging from US$11 for entry and beach chair only to US$39 inclusive of food and drink. Pricier packages cover multiple beverages (US$59), a massage (US$69), transportation from area hotels (US$49 pp), and tours at other attractions.

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Calby's River Hidden Beauty

A riverside park and chill spot along the White River, Calby’s River Hidden Beauty (9am-5pm daily, US$10, US$5 under age 13) has a rope swing and areas where the limestone riverbed has been formed into smooth slides by gushing water. Tubes, guides, and life jackets are included. A bar and restaurant serve beer, jerk chicken, and pork with rice-and-peas and festival.

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Calypso River Rafting

Forty-minute tours down the lower reaches of the White River on bamboo rafts (2 people, US$55) and rubber inner tubes (1 person, US$25) are on offer from Calypso River Rafting.    (Contact Judi Marsh-yasanadi@yahoo.com)

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Calypso River Rafting

Forty-minute tours down the lower reaches of the White River on bamboo rafts (2 people, US$55) and rubber inner tubes (1 person, US$25) are on offer from Calypso River Rafting.    (Contact Judi Marsh-yasanadi@yahoo.com)

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Spanish Bridge

The oldest Spanish Bridge on the island can still be seen at the river’s upper reaches, just above the site where Chukka Caribbean’s River Tubing Safari begins. Several river parks and gardens dot the banks. To get to the White River Valley, turn right at the first stoplight heading east from Ocho Rios along the A3, just after the second gas station. Follow the road for four kilometers (2.5 miles) and turn left at the intersection in Lodge, the second community, and then make a right along the rough dirt road adjacent to an electrical substation.

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Turtle River Falls & Gardens

Turtle River Falls & Gardens (US$20 adults, US$10 under age 12) is a six-hectare (14-acre) river park with 14 cascades, a walk-in aviary and swimming pool. The optional guided tour lasts an hour and 15 minutes. A snack bar serves drinks. Patrons are permitted to bring their own food. A path alongside the river leads to the largest cascade at the top of the park where there’s a deep pool fit for splashing around and visitors can climb the falls.

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Cardiff Hall Property Owners Association (CHPOA)

The Cardiff Hall Property Owners Association (CHPOA) has a small, well-maintained beach park (9am-sunset, admission US$5) adjacent to Jewel Runaway Bay that sees few visitors and tends to be quieter than the more popular and free Flavours Beach. The beach has sea grape trees for shade and a few round stone tables suitable for a picnic. There's a bar and kitchen that can be used for functions. The property is available for private functions (US$10/person, plus US$50 for sanitation worker). Male and female restrooms are available.

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Castleton Botanical Gardens

Castleton Botanical Gardens (free, tip guides) along the main Kingston-to-Annotto Bay road (A3) just over the border from St. Andrew, is still one of the nicest parks in Jamaica, despite having suffered years of neglect and recurring hurricane damage. Castleton was established in the 1860s and planted with 400 species from Kew Gardens in England. It remained an important introduction point for ornamental and economically important species, including scores of palms as well as poincianas and the large Bombay mango variety.

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