Mavis Bank and Blue Mountain Peak

Mavis Bank is a sleepy village nestled in a river valley in the shadow of Blue Mountain Peak. Its principal economic foundation for the past century has been the Mavis Bank Coffee Factory, which keeps many of the area's residents employed. The area is a good base for exploring the upper reaches of the Blue Mountains and for birding.

A few homey accommodation options around Mavis Bank offer visitors a chance to prepare in relative comfort for the trek up Blue Mountain Peak, which requires a somewhat grueling four-wheel-drive journey to the trailhead at Abbey Green, or alternatively, a two-hour hike.

Mavis Bank
Sights

Mavis Bank Coffee Factory (MBCF) (right off the Main Road as you reach Mavis Bank from Gordon Town, tel. 876/977-8005, 876/977-8013, or 876/977-8015, admin@mbcfcoffee.com, 8:30 a.m.–noon and 1–3:30 p.m. Mon.–Fri., tour reservations recommended, US$8 adults, US$3.50 children) was established in 1923 by an English planter, Victor Munn. As the biggest coffee factory in Jamaica, it has been the economic foundation for the area since. The company is currently owned by the National Investment Bank of Jamaica (NIJB) and the founding Munn family, who share 70/30-percent stakes. Today, operations at the 327-worker factory are overseen by local PNP politician Senator Norman Grant, who holds the position of managing director.

Mavis Bank Coffee Factory is supplied by six of its own plantations, including Abbey, St. Thomas, and Orchard Rest, and around 5,000 independent farms. Most of the picking is done by local women, who receive about US$50 per box full of berries. Of this, the vast majority goes to the farm owner where the berries were picked. The coffee is then left outside to dry for 5–7 days, weather permitting, or dried in a giant tumbler for two days if it's too rainy outside. Once dry, the coffee is aged in big sacks for 4–6 weeks before the outer parchment, or hull, is removed and the beans are cleaned and roasted. The whole process takes 3–4 months from bush to mug. Four grades (peaberry, 1, 2, and 3) are produced at MBCF, around 75–80 percent of which is consumed in Japan, with 5 percent going to the United States and 4 percent to Europe and the rest of the world. The remainder goes to local markets. MBCF processes 1.4 million pounds of green beans per year from 6,000 farmers.

The best tours of the factory are led by Doreen "Barbara" Johnson (tel. 876/895-3437), who has worked at MBCF since 1987.

Cinchona Gardens, while not the best-maintained botanical gardens, have a spectacular variety of plants, including many orchid species, making it a magical place with an incredible view. Cinchona Gardens can be reached by turning left at the Anglican church in Mavis Bank, and then descending to cross the Yallahs River at Robertsfield. Once you cross the river, either keep left at the fork to Cinchona via Hall's Delight, or take the right at the fork to reach Cinchona via Westphalia. Both roads are impassable for anything but 4x4 vehicles, or vehicles with good clearance. The bumpy journey takes about an hour from Mavis Bank. The caretaker at Cinchona is Lloyd Stamp (cell. 876/459-8582), known by everyone simply as "Stamp" or "Stampy." He lives in a little house at the bottom of the gardens. There's no admission cost, but given the gardeners' poor government salaries, it's advisable for visitors to "leave a ting" when presented with the visitors' book for signing. Tips should be in the range of US$5–10 per person. The garden is open to visitors and tended from 7:30 a.m.

to around 6 p.m. daily. Call Stamp prior to your visit to check on the weather and the best route to take, as road conditions are in a constant flux and one may be better than the other at any given time.

Another route to Cinchona descends from Section above Hardwar Gap. Turn right at section and descend to St. Peters. In St. Peters turn off the main road to the left toward Chestervale and Clydesdale rather than continuing the decent toward Guava Ridge. At Clydesdale, you'll see barbeques used to dry coffee beans, a water wheel, and an old great house now in ruins that hints of its more glorious past as a coffee plantation. It's a fitting place for camping for those with their own tent. From Clydesdale, an old road leads to Cinchona that takes about 1.5 hours to walk, or a bit quicker for intrepid drivers with a four-wheel-drive vehicle. The views hold more natural beauty on the route down from Section, but it takes quite a while longer to reach Cinchona.

Jill Byles (tel. 876/977-8007 or cell tel. 876/487-5962, paraisoj@cwjamaica.com), a retired horticultural enthusiast who lives at Guava Ridge near Mavis Bank, offers tour guide services (US$50 per day regardless of group size) on hiking trails in the area. Jill can guide visits to Cinchona, Flamstead, and Governor's Bench, a footpath named after Governor Alexander Swettenham, who lived at Bellevue, a great house in the hills now owned by the University of the West Indies that's used for retreats and visitor accommodations.

The only remains of the great house at Flamstead is an old chimney. Flamstead was used as a lookout point as far back as the Taino period and during the Napoleonic Wars, served as a residence for Admiral Rodney, and was used as a base for the British army. Former Jamaican trade ambassador Peter King built a house on the site before being murdered in 2006. A plaque on the house he built notes that the site helped prove the usefulness of longitude as first measured by John Harrison's marine chronometer in 1761 by Harrison's son William. The Harrisons would eventually take the 20,000-pound sterling prize offered by the British crown for a solution to the problem of measuring longitude in the age of sail.

The Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park

Consisting of nearly 81,000 hectares in the parishes of St. Andrew, St. Mary, St. Thomas, and Portland, the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park (BJCMNP, tel. 876/920-8278, jcdt@cybervale.com, www.greenjamaica.org.jm) covers the highest and steepest terrain in Jamaica. This alpine terrain is the last-known habitat for the endangered Giant Swallowtail butterfly, the second-largest butterfly in the world, which makes its home especially on the northern flanks of the range. Several endemic plant and bird species reside in the park as well, and many migratory birds from northern regions winter there. Among the most impressive of the native birds are the streamertail hummingbirds--known locally as doctor birds--and the Jamaican tody, the Jamaican blackbird, and the yellow-billed parrot. The Blue Mountains generally are the source of water for the greater Kingston area and for this reason, among others, it is important to tread lightly and disturb the environment as little as possible. The BJCMNP has the largest unaltered swath of natural forest in Jamaica, with upper montane rainforest and elfin woodland at its upper reaches.

Blue Mountain Peak

The centerpiece of the Blue and John Crow Mountains National Park, Blue Mountain Peak can be reached by a variety of means depending on the level of exhaustion you are willing to endure. Generally, people leave from Whitfield Hall at Penlyne, St. Thomas, after having arrived there by four-wheel-drive vehicle. For ambitious hikers, however, there's also a 4.5-kilometer trail from Mavis Bank to Penlyne Castle, which is pleasant and covers several farms and streams. This option also obviates the need to send for a four-wheel-drive vehicle. From Penlyne Castle, you follow the road to Abbey Green (3.2 km), and then from there to Portland Gap (3.7 km). At Portland Gap there is a ranger station, sometimes unmanned, with bunks, toilets, showers, and campsites. These facilities can be used for US$5 by contacting the JCDT, which asks that visitors register at the ranger station. From Portland Gap to the peak is the most arduous leg, covering 5.6 kilometers. Warm clothes, light rain gear, and comfortable, supportive footwear are recommended.

Blue Mountain Peak is a mildly challenging four-hour hike from Whitfield Hall, a rustic farmhouse with a great fireplace. Trips to overnight at the farm and climb Blue Mountain by sunrise can be arranged through Barrett Adventures (contact Carolyn Barrett, tel. 876/382-6384, info@barrettadventures.com, www.barrettadventures.com).

From Portland Gap westward along the Blue Mountain range there are several other important peaks along the ridge, which are hiked to a far lesser extent. These include Sir John's Peak, John Crow Peak, and Catherine's Peak. Get your hands on a copy of Guide to the Blue and John Crow Mountains by Margaret Hodges; it has the most thorough coverage of hiking trails throughout the national park. Otherwise locals are the best resource.

Accommodations

Forres Park Guest House (reservations office tel. 876/927-8275, in Mavis Bank tel. 876/977-8141, mlyn@cwjamaica.com, www.forrespark.com, US$75–200) is the best option for bird-watchers and hikers, especially for groups. A two-story main house and four cabins are surrounded by a small coffee farm that attracts many endemic and migratory bird species. The large veranda is a great vantage point, as all three of Jamaica's hummingbirds--vervain, Jamaica mango, and streamertail--frequent the bushes all around the chalet-style main house. Rooms range from basic to more well-appointed, with a true mountain cabin feel. You won't miss the lack of air-conditioning, as nights are pleasantly cool. Hot water, on the other hand, comes well appreciated. Two additional superior deluxe rooms were added in 2007, including a suite with a whirlpool tub and a 90-degree view of the mountains, and another large room below, also with a king-size four-poster bed and a private balcony, opening out onto a semi-private garden (US$200). Forres Park is a great launch pad for excursions into the Blue Mountains and Cinchona gardens. The Lyn family owners have one of the largest coffee farming and processing operations on the island.

Lime Tree Farm (Tower Hill, cell tel. 876/881-8788, hello@limetreefarm.com, www.limetreefarm.com, US$130 per person per night, inclusive of three meals per day including wine with dinner; other alcoholic beverages served at additional cost) overlooking Mavis Bank, and with a spectacular view of Portland Gap, Blue Mountain Peak, and the Yallahs River Valley, is a small coffee farm with tastefully decorated concrete cabins owned by partners Charles Burberry and Rodger Bolton. The property is run as an all-inclusive lodging, and the hosts prepare excellent meals that make Lime Tree Farm one of the best values in Jamaica. Meals are shared in the open-air communal kitchen/lounge/dining area, which gives the place a warm, family vibe. Charlie's heritage is quite distinguished indeed; his grandfather, Hugh Foot, was colonial secretary of Jamaica from 1945 to 1947. He later became governor general from 1951 to 1957, during which time he oversaw moves leading up to independence in 1962. Foot, also known as Lord Caradon, marveled in the "the charm and strength of Jamaica in her variety," a commentary brought to life by his heirs at Lime Tree Farm. A four-wheel-drive vehicle is needed to reach the property and can be obtained in Kingston or Mavis Bank.

Whitfield Hall (Penlyne, St. Thomas, tel. 876/927-0986 or 876/878-0514, bookings@whitfieldhall.com, www.whitfieldhall.com, dorm bunks US$20, Coronel Whitfield room in main house US$50) a few kilometers Past Hagley Gap, lies just over the border in the parish of St. Thomas. It is a beautiful old house and coffee farm that offers rustic accommodation in a grand setting with a well-appreciated fireplace to fend off the night chill. Whitfield is the most common starting point for expeditions up to Blue Mountain Peak via Portland Gap, which generally start in the early morning hours to arrive at the summit for sunrise, when hikers have the best chance at taking in a crisp view. As the morning progresses, clouds tend to roll in, often obscuring the peaks and valleys. A guide to the peak is facilitated from Whitfield Hall for US$36 per party. Penlyne is only accessible by four-wheel-drive from Mavis Bank. Transportation can be arranged from any point in Kingston or Mavis Bank, with the cost depending on distance (US$40 from Mavis Bank, US$65 from Papine Square, US$100 from Kingston).

At Portland Gap (29 Dumbarton Ave., Half Way Tree off Eastwood Park Rd., tel. 876/920-8278 or 876/920-8279, jamaicaconservation@gmail.com, www.greenjamaica.org.jm) there are six wooden cabins. Cabin one has six bunks sleeping 12, at US$27/night; the second cabin has nine bunks, sleeping 18, for US$40/night; Cabins 3–6 are unclosed with no beds but with space for up to 15 people to sleep on the floor. Foam sleeping mats can be rented for US$0.60 per night, but hikers should carry their own sleeping bags. Pit toilets and fire pits are available. A US$1.15 user fee is assessed at the ranger station or when booking the cabins through the JCDT.

Food and Services

Mavis Bank is not the place to go for culinary delights or nightlife of any kind. Nonetheless, Karen's Container Bar around the corner from Forres Park is open whenever there are customers to serve.

In Mavis Bank square, By-Way Bar is a livelier local hangout. Also in the square is the post office and police station (tel. 876/977-8004).

To venture farther into the mountains, a four-wheel-drive vehicle is necessary. If you're heading up to Blue Mountain Peak you can call Whitfield Hall (tel. 876/364-0722) for a vehicle to meet you at the constabulary, which is a good place to leave your two-wheel-drive car if you have one.

GETTING THERE AND AROUND

The Blue Mountains are accessible from three points of entry: from Kingston via Papine; from Yallahs, St. Thomas, via Cedar Valley; and from Buff Bay, St. Mary, on the North Coast via the B1, which runs alongside the Buff Bay River. The last route is subject to landslides and has been impassable to all but four-wheel-drive vehicles for several years.

There are two main routes to access the south-facing slopes of the Blue Mountain range. The first, accessed by taking a left onto the B1 at the Cooperage, leads through Maryland to Irish Town, Redlight, Newcastle, and Hardwar Gap before the Buff Bay River Valley opens up overlooking Portland and St. Mary on the other side of the range.

The second route, straight ahead at the Cooperage along Gordon Town Road, leads to Gordon Town, and then taking a right in the town square over the bridge, to Mavis Bank. Continuing beyond Mavis Bank requires a four-wheel-drive vehicle and can either take you left at Hagley Gap to Penlyne or straight down to Cedar Valley and along the Yallahs River to the town of Yallahs.

Getting to and around the Blue Mountains can be a challenge, even if keeping lunch down on the way isn't. Only for the upper reaches, namely beyond Mavis Bank, is it really necessary to have a 4x4; otherwise the abundant potholes and washed-out road is only mildly more challenging to navigate than any other part of Jamaica because of its sharp turns.

A hired taxi into the Blue Mountains will cost from US$25 for a drop-off at Strawberry Hill, to US$100 for the day to be chauffeured around. Route taxis travel between Papine Square and Gordon Town throughout the day (US$2), as well as to Irish Town (US$3.50), but you must wait for the car to fill up with passengers before heading out.

To reach Whitfield Hall, the most common starting point for hiking Blue Mountain, four-wheel-drive taxis can be arranged through Whitfield Hall.

Many travelers find letting a tour operator take care of the driving is the easiest, most hassle-free way to get around the island. One of the most dependable and versatile tour companies on the island is Barrett Adventures (contact Carolyn Barrett, cell tel. 876/382-6384). Barrett can pick you up from any point on the island, getting off the beaten path more often than any other tour company in Jamaica. Barrett also books many of the best budget accommodation options across the island, including a few spots in the Blue Mountains.

Colin Smikle (cell tel. 876/370-8243 or 876/978-5833, colinsmikle@yahoo.com) offers a tour he dubs "Blue Mountain in a Hurry" ($150 for one or two persons with their own vehicle), where he'll guide hikers up and down in a day.