Negril and the West

Negril and the West

Hanover and Westmoreland are Jamaica's westernmost parishes. Hanover wraps around from Montego Bay on its northeastern border to where Negril's large hotel strip overflows from Westmoreland at its western reaches. It's a picturesque parish with small mountains tapering down to the coast with rivers, lush valleys, and deep, navigable coves. Caves dot the landscape of some of Jamaica's most biologically diverse ecosystems, in the shadow of the Dolphin Head mountain range.

Negril, which straddles the Hanover\Westmoreland border, has become a mass-market destination popular among Jamaicans and foreign visitors alike. The Kingstonian phenomenon of a weekend escape to "country" often implies a trip west to kick back and adopt the beach life, which necessarily involves taking in spectacular sunsets and the enviable slow pace evoked in Tyrone Taylor's 1983 hit, "Cottage in Negril." A constant stream of new visitors also gives hustlers a chance to do their thing, and Negril has gained a reputation as a mecca for sinful indulgence as a result.

While Negril is the region's most well-known draw, there are several low-key communities farther east that are just as easily accessible from Montego Bay's international airport and worthy coastal destinations in themselves, namely Little Bay, Bluefields, Belmont, and Whitehouse. The Westmoreland interior consists of vast alluvial plains on either side of Cabarita River, still some of Jamaica's most productive sugarcane territory. The plains extend from the base of the Orange Hill, just east of Negril, to where the Roaring River rises out of the earth from its underground source in the hills above Blue Hole Garden.

PLANNING YOUR TIME

Negril is the ultimate place to kick back on the beach and forget what day of the week it is. The general area has other worthwhile sights, however, which can help avoid sunburn and provide a glimpse of the "true" Jamaica--with all the allure of its countryside lifestyle and lush scenery. Most visitors to Negril come specifically to laze on the beach in the dead of winter, but there are special events throughout the year to be considered if you're planning a trip with some flexibility.

Negril is invaded each year March\April by American college kids on all-inclusive spring break vacation packages. The spring breakers come from different institutions over the course of the month, but mostly during the first and second weeks of March. Recent years have been disappointing from an economic standpoint, with fewer visitors than years past. Still, you will want to keep this in mind when planning your trip to Negril--to either avoid the spring break crowd or coincide with it, depending on what you hope to get out of your beach vacation.

HISTORY

Negril's natural beauty has been appreciated for centuries, first by the Tainos, Jamaica's first inhabitants; later by pirates and fishermen; and, finally, after a road was built connecting Negril to Green Island in 1959, by the rest of Jamaica and the world at large. Negril Harbor, or Bloody Bay as it is more commonly known, got its name from the whales slaughtered there, whose blood turned the water red. Today the water is crystal clear. The bay was a favorite hangout for the pirate Calico Jack Rackham and his consort piratesses Mary Read and Anne Bonney, all of whom were captured drunk and partying in Bloody Bay. Calico Jack was hanged in Kingston, while his female counterparts were pardoned. Bloody Bay was also a regular departure point for ships heading to Europe, which would go in fleets to ensure their survival on the high seas. The Bay also provided a hiding place from which ambushes were launched on Spanish ships. It was also the departure point for the British naval mission, which saw 50 British ships launch a failed attempt to capture Louisiana, culminating in the Battle of New Orleans during the American War of Independence.

Negril

Negril has become Jamaica's foremost beach town, evolving over the past decade along with the changing nature of the tourists who come to bask in the sun and adopt the island's pace. Today, world-class restaurants and lodging provide an alternative to the low-key guesthouses and seafood stalls that became the norm during Negril's transition from fishing village to tourist boomtown in the 1970s. What was once Jamaica's secret paradise is today the heart of the island's diversified tourist economy.

Orientation

Life in Negril is focused on the west-facing coastline, which is divided between Seven-Mile Beach and the West End, or the Cliffs. Seven-Mile Beach runs from Bloody Bay in Hanover on its northern end to the mouth of the Negril River in Westmoreland, on the southern end of Long Bay. There are three principal roads that meet at the roundabout in the center of Negril: Norman Manley Boulevard, which turns into the A1 as it leaves town heading northeast toward Mobay; West End Road, which continues along the coast from the roundabout hugging the cliffs well past the lighthouse, until it eventually turns inland, rejoining the main south coast road (A2) in the community of Negril Spot; and Whitehall Road, which extends inland from the roundabout toward the golf course, becoming the A2 at some point, with no warning before continuing on toward Sav-la-Mar.

Saftey

Due to its status as Jamaica's foremost tourism mecca, Negril tends to attract some of the island's most aggressive hustlers. Many will feign friendship and generosity only to demand, often with aggression and intimidation, exorbitant compensation for whatever good or service is on offer, whether it's a CD of one of the countless "up-and-coming artists," a marijuana spliff handed to you as someone extends their hand in greeting, or a piece of jewelry. As a rule, do not accept anything you don't actually want, and clarify the expected compensation if you do want it before allowing anyone to put something in your hand or mouth. It is not uncommon for these kinds of hustlers to draw a knife to intimidate you, and there is generally little fear of repercussions from the police, who tend to be slow-moving if responsive at all. The police are unlikely to be sympathetic, especially if a quarrel or skirmish involves drugs, even if the mix-up was unprovoked. Do your best to stay in well-populated areas, and try to avoid unsolicited approaches from strangers offering something you don't want.

SIGHTSBloody Bay

Bloody Bay is located just north of the piece of land jutting out toward Booby Cay that is home to Hedonism II, Point Village, and Breezes Grand Negril. Bloody Bay is currently dominated by all-inclusive hotels, including two relatively new Riu hotels, SuperClub's flagship Breezes Grand Negril, Couples Negril, and the private beach for Sunset at the Palms, located across the road. The beach on Bloody Bay is accessible to nonguests at several points along the road, most easily at the Office of Nature (contact PR agent Joseph Reid, cell tel. 876/369-0395), which is just past the fenced-off private beach of Sunset at the Palms. Here you can chill out and get lobster and fish (11 a.m.\sunset, US$10\30) from the outdoor grill manned by Robert, Symore, and Binghi. Next door, Johnny P's Jamaican Kitchen (cell tel. 876/999-6325, US$2\3) serves up staples like chicken with rice and peas. On the same little stretch of beach, Ackee (Roydel Reid, cell tel. 876/868-7312) and Andy (Conrad Getten, cell tel. 876/894-3042) take visitors out for snorkeling excursions (1.5 hrs, US$20/person with two-person minimum) and glass-bottomed boat tours. The fish and lobster vendors at the Office of Nature tend to be quite aggressive in soliciting business, to the point of discomfort, and sadly the lobster and fish they extract from the sea get smaller and smaller with each passing year, throwing into question the ethical merit of supporting their business from an environmental standpoint.

Seven-Mile Beach

Jamaica's longest beach is no longer the undisturbed keep of fishermen, as it was in the 1960s, but there are plenty of benefits that have come as a result of the virtually uncurbed development of the last 30 years. The sand remains a beautiful golden color, and the waters, while increasingly over-fished, remain crystal clear. A bar is never more than an arm's length away, and every kind of water sport is available. Expect advances from all manner of peddler and hustler until your face becomes known and your reaction time to these calls for attention slows. The northern end of the beach is cordoned off by security in front of the all-inclusive resorts, while at the southern end the Negril River forms a natural border by the fishermen's village and crafts market. Also on the southern end is Negril's community park, where dances and daytime events are sometimes held.

Royal Palm Reserve

Managed by the Negril Area Environmental Protection Trust (NEPT) and located 1.5 kilometers into the middle of the Great Morass from Sheffield, the 121-hectare Royal Palm Reserve (cell tel. 876/364-7407, nept_negril@yahoo, www.nept.wordpress.com, 9 a.m.\6 p.m daily, US$15) is home to 114 plant species, including the endemic morass royal palms found only in western Jamaica. It's also home to over 300 animal species, including insects, reptiles (including two species of American crocodile), and birds. The 26 resident bird species, which include the Jamaican woodpecker, Jamaican oriole, Jamaican euphonia, Jamaican parakeet, and the endemic endangered West Indian whistling duck, are joined by 16 migratory species that arrive at different times of the year. Admission includes a guided tour around 0.75 kilometers of boardwalk, and the ponds are open for sportfishing (US$5 with your own gear); you are almost guaranteed to catch African perch, tilapia, or tarpon. Shuttle service can be arranged (US$20 per person) from Negril. Royal Palm Reserve was leased by NEPT from the Petroleum Corporation of Jamaica (PCJ) as an alternative to a peat-mining project that had been planned. In the environmental impact study, it was found the project would have destroyed the beach and reef ecosystems. The present facilities were completed in 1989. Bird-watchers should make reservations with the NEPT office (tel. 876/957-3736) to get in earlier than normal opening hours. There is a nice bar area overlooking the water where drinks are served.

Other Sights

Whitehall Great House is yet another great house in ruins, located on the old Whitehall Estate on the ascent to Mount Airy. To get there, take a right immediately before the Texaco Station on Good Hope Road heading east from the Negril roundabout toward Sav-la-Mar. The ruins are about a mile up the hill on the left and command an excellent view of Negril Beach and the morass. One of the largest cotton trees in Jamaica stands on the property.

Bongo's Farm (tel. 876/880-7500, fanette@mail.infochan.com), owned by Bongo and Fanette Johnson, hosts visitors for hikes over gorgeous terrain with great views of Negril's coastline. This is the best place within 10 minutes of the beach to kick back and unwind in a truly Jamaican rural setting; the lush vegetation and laid-back company make for a great attraction. Jelly coconuts are served fresh from the tree, and visitors are shown a variety of botanical specimens cultivated on the farm.

Negril Lighthouse is located near the westernmost point of Jamaica on West End Road just past The Caves. The lighthouse dates from 1894 and stands 30 meters above the sea.

ENTERTAINMENT

The great thing about Negril is the fact that no matter the season, you can forget what day of the week it is in a hurry. While weekends remain "going-out nights," and important acts that draw large Jamaican audiences will perform generally on a Friday or Saturday, big artists also perform on Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday nights. Because Negril is so small, the handful of clubs that monopolize the regular live entertainment market have made a tacit pact whereby each takes a night, or two, of the week. This way, the main clubs are guaranteed a weekly following, and Negril's transient crowd can somewhat keep tabs on where to go on any particular evening.

Bars and Clubs

Negril has an overwhelming number of bars and grills. This section covers establishments that are recommended more as nightlife draws, rather than for their food.

The Jungle (tel. 876/954-4005 or 876/954-4819, info@junglenegril.com, www.junglenegril.com) is Negril's only off-the-water club, located in an old bank toward the middle of the beach on the morass side of Norman Manley Boulevard. It has regular theme nights throughout the week, as well as special events, normally held on weekends. Ladies' Night on Thursdays gets packed, and Saturdays generally see a good crowd dancing well into the morning. The Amazon Lounge at Jungle is open daily (4 p.m to midnight).

Margaritaville (tel. 876/957-4467) has been headquarters for spring break activities for a number of years and is one of the most successful bar chains on the island. Villa Negril, as the Negril branch is called, is a more laid-back version of the Jimmy Buffet franchise than its Mobay or Ochi counterparts. When it isn't peak party season, it's mostly known for its giveaways and beach parties on Tuesdays and Wednesdays in the early evening. Margaritaville is one of the venues frequently used for the Absolute Temptation Isle (ATI) events around Emancipation weekend.

Risky Business (tel. 876/957-3008) has live reggae three nights a week and is a bar and grill daily. Monday is Appleton's Ladies' Night, on Thursdays all local liquor is US$2. Saturday it's a bottomless mug 8 p.m\1 a.m.(US$12).

Roots Bamboo Beach Resort (tel. 876/957-4479, rootsbamboobeach@hotmail.com) is run by the congenial Ted Plumber. It's been in business since 1979, when Ted bought the property and constructed bamboo bungalows. Ted was inspired by camping communities he saw along lakes in Canada. When Hurricane Gilbert destroyed the bungalows in 1988, he built the current concrete-and-wood houses. Care should be taken to secure your belongings, should you stay at Roots Bamboo. Security has been an issue in the past, as the bar hosts live music a few nights per week and nonguests take over the property. Roots Bamboo has been an entertainment venue since 1985 and recently started free live jazz 6\10 p.m on Sundays, in addition to its long-standing live performances on Wednesdays.

Bourbon Beach (tel. 876/957-4405, www.bourbonbeachnegril.com, www.negrilreggae.com) took over from Debuss and is owned by four brothers and two sisters and managed by Jimmy Morrell. Monday Reggae Magic features internationally known acts like Gregory Isaacs, John Holt, and Yellowman, who are all regulars. Bourbon Thursdays features young and up-and-coming reggae acts and some of the more obscure local acts, and Saturdays Live on the Beach are usually reserved for a live local act, like Vybz Kartel or vintage artist like Ken Booth and The Mighty Diamonds. Bourbon Beach serves the best jerk on the beach from a pit on one side of the venue from mid-morning late into the night.

Alfred's Ocean Palace (tel. 876/957-4669, info@alfreds.com, www.alfreds.com) has been in operation since 1982. Jamaican and international cuisine with chicken, shrimp, and fish dishes (US$10\15) is served 8 a.m.\10:30 p.m daily in high season; the kitchen closes at 9 p.m in the low season. Alfred's also has eight double- and triple-occupancy rooms (US$40\50). Sundays, Tuesdays, and Fridays are Live Reggae Beach Party nights, which typically feature local acts (US$4) with occasional big-name international acts like Toots and Capleton (US$10\15).

Jamaica Tamboo (tel. 876/957-4282,) is perhaps best known as the location for some of the parties during ATI weekend around Independence Day. Occasional events are held at other times throughout the year as well, while it functions day-to-day as a restaurant and sports bar. The beachfront property has basic rooms and wireless Internet at a good value (US$60).

MX3 (contact Clive "Kubba" Pringle, cell tel. 876/851-8831, actionparknegril@gmail.com) has been functioning as a party lawn since 1990 where occasional plays, stage shows and boxing matches are held. Email or call to find out what's upcoming. In 2010 Spiritz Nightclub opened at the lawn.

Sexy Rexy Sunset Cliff (between Rick's Cafe and The Caves, www.sexyrexynegril.com, cell tel. 876/445-3740, 10 a.m.\6 a.m.daily) serves Jamaican and vegetarian dishes with a cliff-side bar ideal for taking in sunsets. Rexy Tomlinson established the joint in 1978.

Wavz (cell tel. 876/881-9289, www.wavzevents.com) is a seasonal venue and promotions company that hosts occasional parties throughout the year.

Negril Beach Park hosts Flava Sundays, drawing the biggest crowd in Negril on any given week with a nice mix of tourists, expats, and locals for dancehall sessions featuring top sound systems from Jamaica and abroad. Contact the park manager Clive "Kubba" Pringle (cell tel. 876/851-8831, actionparknegril@gmail.com) for more information.

On The Rocks (noon\midnight daily) is an interesting bar with what looks like a drive-in movie theater in its parking lot. Movies are played nightly (free admission), and popcorn and ice cream are served. Inexpensive drinks in a vibesy setting close to the water's edge make this a good place to down a mid-evening drink before hitting the clubs.

Festivals and Events

The weekends around Emancipation Day (August 1, 1838) and Independence Day (August 6, 1962) are filled with parties in Negril as Absolute Temptation Isle (www.atiweekend.com) and competing event Appleton Treasure Island (contact Appleton's Kingston office, tel. 876/923-6141, appleton@infochan.com) try to outdo each other by throwing the hottest and most frequent parties. Big-time promoters from Kingston and Miami draw Jamaica's party youth from across the globe, who arrive to indulge in booze, ganja, general debauchery, and a few stage shows. ATI Weekend is well worthwhile as a more genuinely Jamaican party scene and it's the only time of year when Negril is decidedly taken over by Jamaicans, making spring break look like child's play.

The Reggae Marathon, Half Marathon, and 10K (contact director Alfred "Frano" Francis, tel. 876/922-8677, racedirector@reggaemarathon.com, or marketing director Diane Ellis, frandan@cwjamaica.com, www.reggaemarathon.com) held at the beginning of December, is a popular event drawing locals, expats, and runners from abroad for a race on a mostly flat, IAAF-certified route starting at Long Bay Beach Park on Seven-Mile Beach, going into the town of Negril, and heading north toward the town of Green Island before looping to the finish line back at Long Bay Beach Park. Events start on Friday with registration, a pasta party, and village bash. Races start at the crack of dawn on Saturday, with a ceremony later in the day where winners compete for a total purse of over US$10,000 in prize money. You must be 18 years old to run the marathon, and at least age 10 for the 10K. Fees are US$85 per person for the marathon and US$60 for the 10K on or before July 31, US$95 for marathon and US$70 for 10K after August 1.

The Negril Jerk Festival (contact 3 Dives Jerk Centre owner Lyndon Myrie, a.k.a. Lloydie, tel. 876/957-0845 or 876/782-9990) is held on the last Sunday of November, where different jerk vendors from across the island are invited to set up stalls by 3 Dives Jerk Centre on the West End.

Miami Linkup (contact Robert "Dozer" Williams, cell tel. 954/479-0202 or 876/815-2198, rebeltsound@gmail.com, www.rebeltsound.com), an event promotions group, hosts an annual Spring Break party that draws large crowds to a stage show brimming with the hottest of Jamaica's dancehall and reggae artists around the second weekend in March.

Western Consciousness (contact promoter Worrel King, cell tel. 876/383-7717 or 876/849-8426, kingofkingspro@hotmail.com, www.westernconsciousness.com) is a not-to-be-missed reggae show for fans of conscious roots music put on by King of Kings Promotions in late April or May each year at Paradise Park on the outskirts of Savanna-la-Mar.

SHOPPING

Natural Vibes Souvenir Shop (between Jamaica Tamboo and Risky Business, tel. 876/352-5849, naturalvibesjamaica@gmail.com, 8 a.m.\7 p.m daily) has been run by Haresh "Hassle Free Harry" Pahilwani since 2004 and is known for hassle-free shopping for Cuban cigars, Jamaica T-shirts and sweats, sandals, sunglasses, Rasta hats, and smoking paraphernalia.

Bongo Johnson (tel. 876/486-0006) makes beautiful art sculptures, which can be seen by special arrangement. Johnson's delicate lignum vitae sculptures are on exhibit at the National Gallery in Kingston. He could be convinced to sell a piece if the price is right.

Abdel, a.k.a. Branzo (cell tel. 876/867-4246), can be found in his One Stop Branzo Wood Sculptures shop on the beachfront at Wavz Entertainment Centre (8 a.m.\8 p.m daily). Branzo is one of the most talented wood carvers around and also sells the work of several other woodworkers in his little shop.

Errol Allen (cell tel. 876/385-5399) is a talented local artist who makes unique silhouette sculptures and oil paintings. Allen's sculptures can be seen on the grounds of Whistling Bird.