Quao's Village

A traditional country-style lunch (US$12/person) can be arranged at Quao’s Village a bit farther upstream, where Frank’s brother Keith Lumsden (cell tel. 876/440-2200) manages a swimming hole and rustic restaurant attraction. The spot is named after Maroon warrior Captain Quao (The Invisible Hunter), who, alongside Jamaica’s first national hero, Nanny of the Maroons, fought off the British to assert his people’s autonomy from the colonists.

A local chef treats visitors to traditional dishes like crayfish rundown (not to be missed) and saltfish rundown accompanied by boiled green banana and ground provisions (yam, coco, dasheen, pumpkin). There is an area where you can pitch a tent to overnight in Charles Town.