Uptown

Emancipation Park

At the corner of Knutsford Boulevard and Oxford Road (tel. 876/926-6312 or 876/968-9292, emanpark@cwjamaica.com) two figures stand resolute, cast in bronze, their bodies thick and steadfast. A strong black man faces a voluptuous woman, their heads proudly lifted to the sky as if at once acknowledging the rectitude of their long struggle for freedom and silently praying for guidance in a new era. The work, titled Redemption Song, was the winner of a blind competition commissioned to give the newly constructed Emancipation Park a meaningful headpiece. It was controversial for several reasons. First, its creator, Jamaican sculptor Laura Facey (www.laurafacey.com), has a very fair complexion. Second, the figures are naked, and the man could be considered well endowed. Some people wanted the sculpture immediately removed, and Facey was the talk of the island for weeks. In the end, artistic freedom prevailed and the sculpture was kept in place, much to its opponents' chagrin.

In late 2006, Facey opened an exhibit at the gallery in the natural history building of the Institute of Jamaica, where the central work was an homage to Redemption Song: a multitude of scaled-downed figures--identical to those on the corner of Emancipation Park--packed into a canoe reminiscent of the way they were brought through the Middle Passage. For Facey, the piece was part of a continuum consistent with the earlier work, which sets those captive souls on a new course to freedom. David Boxer, curator of the National Gallery, opened the exhibit by paying tribute to Redemption Song with the following words:

Q: . . . their heads are raised heavenwards in prayer...
Yes, this is a prayer--the work is a silent hymn of communion with, and thanksgiving to, the almighty. Their nudity is part of their potency.

Redemption Song and the controversy that surrounded it reflect the deep wounds slavery left on Jamaica and the world at large. Emancipation Park is among the best-maintained public spaces in all of Kingston, perfect for reflecting on the past, relaxing on one of the many benches, or just taking a stroll. Events are held frequently on a stage set up at the center of the park and next door at the Liguanea Club or on top of the NHT building.

Half Way Tree

Half Way Tree is the capital of St. Andrew, the parish that envelops Kingston. The bustling commercial area seen today is a far cry from its rural days when it was a popular rest stop for travelers between Kingston and Spanish Town. Several historical sites are wedged between the acres and acres of the concrete, strip mall-covered jungle.

The clock tower at the junction of Half Way Tree, Hope, Constant Spring, and Hagley Park Roads, was erected in 1913 as a monument to King Edward VII of England. It's the classic symbol of Half Way Tree.

St. Andrew Parish Church (free) also referred to as Half Way Tree Church, is one of the oldest Anglican churches on the island. The present church has a foundation that dates from 1692, when the earthquake destroyed the previous structure (which had stood only for a decade). One of the first U.S. Consuls to Jamaica, Robert Monroe Harrison, brother of U.S. President Benjamin Harrison, is buried there, along with his wife. Philip Livingston, a Jamaica-based merchant and son of one of the founding fathers of the United States, was married in the church. Outside there's an old, poorly maintained cemetery.

The Half Way Tree Courthouse adjacent to the Parish Church is a good example of Georgian architecture, dating from 1807. The front of the building is covered with latticework, presumably to keep out the heat as a form of early air conditioning. The building has been repaired and altered several times to fix storm damage, while it miraculously escaped damage during the 1907 earthquake.

The courthouse has seen many uses, from ex-slaves obtaining their certificates of freedom to agricultural society meetings. After the construction of the Resident Magistrates Court on nearby Maxfield Avenue in 1920, court sessions were no longer held at Half Way Tree Courthouse. Up until the mid-1980s, the building was used as a branch of the Institute of Jamaica called the Junior Centre, which held skills-training courses. In 2002, the center reopened and for a time hosted dance classes of the National Dance Theatre Company under the direction of late UWI professor Rex Nettleford. The courthouse was listed as a Jamaica National Heritage Trust (JNHT) site in 1957, and in 1985 the Jamaica Gazette declared it a National Monument. Meanwhile the structure suffered neglect and decay.

One important trial held at the Half Way Tree Courthouse was that of Alexander Bedward, a popular folk hero and founder of a Native Free Baptist sect known as Bedwardism. Bedward was an early Black Nationalist who spoke out against the religious and government authorities of the day. For this he was committed to Bellevue asylum until his death in 1930.

The Ethiopian Orthodox Church (McDonald Lane) was founded in Jamaica in 1972. This is the original state church of Ethiopia to which Haile Selassie I belonged. The church has an awkward relationship with Rastafarians in Jamaica; many of them have been baptized as Ethiopian Orthodox, including Bob Marley's children. To this day, the construction remains incomplete with little more than a foundation in place. Its construction has been held up by a lack of cosmic alignment and a lack of togetherness in the Rasta community, according to Rasta elder Kojo and many others who share his view. Meanwhile, many inside the Ethiopian Church scorn Rastas for considering Haile Selassie a God.

Kingston's Hindu Temple (139 Maxfield Ave.) holds events for all the major Hindu holidays including Ganesh Puja and Diwali. Local Hindus attend in heavy numbers on Sunday mornings.

Devon House

Still one of Kingston's finest homes (26 Hope Rd., Great House, tel. 876/929-6602, 876/929-0815, or 876/926-0829, devonhousejamaica@cw.com, www.devonhousejamaica.com, guided tours 9:30 a.m.–5 p.m. Mon.–Sat., last tour at 4:30 p.m., US$5 for adults, US$1.50 for children under 12), Devon House is a source of pride for the City. The mansion was constructed in 1881 by Jamaica's first black millionaire, George Stiebel, who made his fortune in Venezuelan gold. Some of the city's predominantly white elite of the day were less than happy to be outdone by a black man; it is said that Lady Musgrave--wife of Governor General Lord Musgrave, who founded the Institute of Jamaica--actually had a road built (Lady Musgrave Road) so she wouldn't have to bear the humiliation of passing the spectacular mansion that humbled even her husband's residence. For many years Devon House was home to the National Gallery, before it relocated to Ocean Boulevard in 1983. Today the inside is furnished and decorated with a range of English, French, and Caribbean antiques, as well as some reproductions. The courtyard behind Devon House is full of boutique shops.

Bob Marley Museum

Located in Bob Marley's former residence at 56 Hope Road, just north of New Kingston, the house and museum (tel. 876/927-9152, US$20 adults, US$10 children 4–12, www.bobmarley-foundation.com/museum.html) has been turned into a shrine to the man and his music, with rooms full of newspaper clippings and personal effects. One-hour tours run Monday–Saturday; tours start at 9:30 a.m. and the last tour leaves at 4 p.m. Around back, there's a gift shop and a gallery has transient exhibitions. A comfortable, cozy theater is a great place to catch a movie. A presentation on Marley is available as part of the tour, and the theater is also used for occasional touring international film festivals.

Legend Café, on one side of the main gate, has great steamed fish and fresh juices. Marley's Land Rover sits under a protective carport in the other corner of the yard in front of a wall plastered with Wailers photos. Photos are not allowed inside or behind the main building that houses the museum.

Along Hope Road

King's House (Hope Rd. at Lady Musgrave Rd., tel. 876/927-6424, fax 876/978-6025, visits scheduled by written request) has been the home of the Governor General since the capital was moved from Spanish Town in 1872. Jamaica's official head of state is appointed by the Queen of England for six-year terms. King's House was formerly the residence of Jamaica's Anglican Bishop. The original building was destroyed in the 1907 earthquake and rebuilt in 1909. The grounds have nice gardens that can be toured. Jamaica House, just south of King's House on the same grounds, is now the location for the Prime Minister's offices and is closed to the public.

Hope Botanical Gardens (just below University of Technology on western side of Hope Rd., 6 a.m.–6:30 p.m. daily, free admission), managed by the Nature Preservation Foundation (tel. 876/970-3505 hopegardens.zoo@gmail.com), is more pleasant and impressive than the Hope Zoo (tel. 876/970-2459, 10 a.m.–4 p.m. daily, adults US$2, children 3–11 US$1.10), located in the same large park. The zoo is more of a nursing home for a few lost and found animals: sheep, a monkey, a handful of flamingos, and several iguanas. You won't find leopards or elephants.

The University of the West Indies (Mona Rd. and University Rd., www.mona.uwi.edu), in the quiet residential neighborhood of Mona, is worth a visit as the campus sits at the base of the Blue Mountains and has extensive rolling lawns with interesting ruins of the old Mona Estate aqueduct and a beautiful mural created by Belgian artist Claude Rahir with the help of UWI students.

The cut-stone University Chapel by the main entrance is an excellent example of Georgian architecture. It was transported block by block from Gales Valley Estate in Trelawny at the bidding of Princess Alice, first chancellor of the University. The former sugar warehouse was given a new life at UWI, its interior decorated with materials from all the countries the university has served. The coats of arms of these countries are inlaid in the chapel ceiling.

Cherry Gardens Great House

Cherry Gardens Great House (46 Upper Russell Heights) was built by Scottish Planter Joseph Gordon, father of national hero George William Gordon, who was born to a quadroon slave in humble quarters next to the main house. George William Gordon went on to become a successful mulatto businessman who agitated for civil rights until he was executed for taking a stand. A drive up through Cherry Gardens gives a glimpse into Uptown, with concrete mansions covering the landscape. Cherry Gardens Great House is a breath of fresh air amongst monstrosities seemingly built with no regard for the surrounding environment. The great house itself is an architectural masterpiece, where louvered windows keep the inside dark and cool while allowing the breeze to move freely through. Though the house is not open to the public, the owners, Oliver Jones and family, are friendly enough and don't mind people stopping by for a look at the outside.