West of Port Antonio

The road west of Morant Bay toward Kingston hugs the coast, passing through dusty communities where jerk vendors and a few shops mark the centers of the action. This is an area most people just pass through. There are a few notable stops, however, but few accommodation options (beyond a few quickie joints) before reaching Bull Bay in St. Andrew.

White Horses

Just east of White Horses you arrive at Rozelle Falls, where locals often congregate to wash or cool off. The falls are visible from the main road (A4).

The Ethiopian Zion Coptic Church (service on Sat.) has its headquarters at Crighton Hall in White Horses just before reaching Yallahs, where it sits on more than 600 hectares of land. To get there, turn inland off the main road (A4) by a set of fruit vendors in the middle of White Horses. Coptic Road is on the left, marked with a sign. Said to be 20 million strong, the Ethiopian Zion Coptic Church in Jamaica is led by Everton Shand, chief elder, and spiritual leader Brother Shine. Niah Keith and Brother Love were the founders of the original Coptic Church in Jamaica, while the institution originates in Ethiopia, where it was the official Imperial church for ages from ancient Egypt. A large tablet that dates from 1738 written in Old English was found during excavations and is on display. Many of Jamaica's roots reggae artists have attended the Ethiopian Zion Coptic Church. The White Horses Kumina Group, Upliftment, hosts cultural and sports events in the community on a regular basis.

Yallahs

Sixteen kilometers west of Morant Bay, large salt ponds can be seen along the coast marking the approach to Yallahs. These ponds were once used as a source for salt and are home to brine shrimp and yellow butterflies. The name Yallahs is derived from the surname of a Spanish family that settled there to raise cattle on a ranch known as Hato de Ayala. The road inland from the center of Yallahs leads up along the river to Bethel Gap and from there deeper into the mountains, ultimately reaching Hagley Gap on a poor road traversable only by four-wheel-drive vehicles. Eleven kilometers north of Yallahs across the river from Easington is Judgment Cliff, which collapsed during the earthquake of 1692--burying an entire valley, it is said, in judgment of the Dutchman who maltreated slaves on his plantation. In any case, judgment was not justice, and most of his slaves died alongside him under the weight of a small mountain.

About 1.5 kilometers west of Yallahs, the broad, washed-out Yallahs River overflows during periods of heavy rain and dries completely for much of the year near its mouth due to dry, pebbly soil along its bed. At 37 kilometers from its source to the sea, it's one of Jamaica's longest rivers, starting 1,371 meters up and running down the principal trough along the base of the southern slopes of the Blue Mountains. Along the way, it is fed by several tributaries. Bridges built across the Yallahs have a tendency to disappear during hurricanes and are replaced routinely. For most of the year the riverbed near its mouth can be forded with no sign of water. The Yallahs River feeds the Mona Reservoir next to UWI via an aboveground pipe. Along with the Hope River, it is a major water source for the metropolitan area. There are decent beaches around Yallahs: Bailey's Beach to the east and Flemarie Beach just west of town.

Links Seafood Restaurant & Lounge (cell tel. 876/703-3927, 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon.–Sat.) on Fleming Beach is a nice chill-out spot to get some grub on the waterfront.

West of Yallahs just shy of the St. Andrew border, Eleven Mile is a small community known as the old stomping ground of legendary Jack Mansong, a.k.a. "Three-Finger Jack." A runaway slave, Three-Finger Jack became a bandit who took justice into his own hands in the vein of a Jamaican Robin Hood. He wreaked terror on the plantocracy and tried to kill a slave trader before ultimately being captured by Maroon leader Quashie, who carried his head to Spanish Town to collect the £300 reward.

Sun Coast Adventure Park

Located about 15 minutes east of the Harbour View Roundabout in 12 Mile, Sun Coast Adventure Park (sales office cell tel. 876/485-0015, park manager James Worton tel. 876/564-6999 or 876/995-9450, info@suncoastadventurepark.com, www.suncoastadventurepark.com, 9 a.m.–5:30 p.m. Sat.–Sun., admission US$8) offers paintball (US$30 per person, US$40 with upgrade and US$8 for an additional 100 paintballs), nature trails, a ropes course, and the Anansi Maze. Bookings can be made during the week for groups of 10 or more with a deposit.

Getting There and Around

Points between Kingston and Morant Bay along the coast are served by JUTC buses departing from the Transport Centre in Half Way Tree for around US$1. For points farther east or around the coast, a private driver or route taxis are necessary. Taxis and small buses depart from the square in Morant Bay for Bath and Manchioneel as they fill up, costing less than US$5.

West of Port Antonio

The road west of Port Antonio runs along the coast, cutting inland occasionally through several small towns including St. Margaret's Bay, Hope Bay, and Buff Bay before reaching the border with St. Mary just east of Annotto Bay. The region is characteristically lush with fruit vendors and roadside shops intermittently along the road. Apart from Somerset Falls on the eastern edge of Hope Bay, the area is void of developed tourist attractions, but the sparsely populated coastline is in itself enticing; for the adventurous looking for secluded beaches, there are great opportunities for exploring around Orange Bay.

From Buff Bay, the B1 heads inland, climbing past Charles Town into the Blue Mountains and affording great views. This is the route on which Blue Mountain Bicycle Tours operates.

ST. MARGARET'S BAY

The quiet seaside village of St. Margaret's Bay is notable principally as the end point for the rafts coming down the Rio Grande. There are a few accommodation options and a notable craft shop, Jah Tobs Crafts (tel. 876/913-3242) making Rasta-style knits and other craft items including tams, belts, swimsuits, bags, chains, calabash purses, and much more.

Accommodations and Food

Rio Vista Resort Villas (on the eastern banks of the Rio Grande, tel. 876/993-5444, fax 876/993-5445, riovistavillaja@jamweb.net, www.riovistajamaica.com, US$75–250) has two-bedroom cottages, a one-bedroom honeymoon cottage with a spectacular view up the Rio Grande (US$155), and four single rooms between the main house and two suites. The one-bedroom cottage is suitable for a couple, the two-bedroom cottages can sleep up to four, and the three-bedroom villa sleeps up to six on two king-size and two full-size beds. To get there, turn right up the hill just around the corner after crossing the Rio Grande heading east. The "room with a view" is perhaps the nicest cottage, with a private balcony overlooking the river--the view can be appreciated from the inviting king-size bed. The property is run by Sharon, her son Chris and his wife Cyndi, who live on-property.

Paradise Inn (tel. 876/993-5169, paradiseinn295@hotmail.com, US$35–60) is a dive located along the main road (A4) with nine rooms lacking charm, each with one or two double beds. Rooms have cable TV, ceiling fans, and hot water come standard. Four rooms have kitchenettes.

Rafter's Rest (tel. 876/993-5778) is where the bamboo rafts pull in at the end of the 2.5-hour journey down the Rio Grande. There is a restaurant serving Jamaican staples (US$5–15) and a bar overlooking the river. The river is fit for swimming, and there is a beach where the river meets the sea.

HOPE BAY
Sights

Somerset Falls (about 3 km east of Hope Bay, tel. 876/913-0046, info@somersetfallsjamaica.com, www.somersetfallsjamaica.com, 9 a.m.–5 p.m. daily, US$12 adults, US$6 children, free under age 9) is a great place to stop for a dip. The falls are reached by rowboat through cavernous cliffs surrounding a narrow inlet. A bar and restaurant serves beer, rum, fruit juice, jerk chicken and pork, fish, lobster, shrimp, burgers, hot dogs, and fries (US$7–25). A games area has billiards, table tennis, and foosball, with water volleyball in the pool. Occasionally, large events are staged at the venue section next door. The park has a number of caged birds and some deer, recaptured after they escaped in a hurricane years ago.

Likkle Porti, located across the street by the mouth of the Danny River, is owned by the same management as Somerset, with a seafood grill serving roast, steamed, and fried fish, accompanied by bammy and festival in the style of Little Ochie, a South Coast favorite. There's bathing access to the river and sea, with rafting and boat rides offered.

Pauline Petinaud, a.k.a. "Sista P" (cell tel. 876/426-1957), recently moved her African-Jamaican crafts shop and guest house from Port Antonio to Hope Bay, where she rents two basic rooms with common kitchen and bath for budget-minded travelers (US$30). Sista P, not to be confused with PNP politician Portia Simpson-Miller of the same pet name, is an important figure behind the movement to celebrate the African heritage inherent in Jamaican culture. Her craft shop sells African-inspired Jamaican items as well as a variety of African imports. She is best known for her founding role in the annual African-heritage festival, Fi Wi Sinting, which translates as "something for us."

J&J Natural Food Restaurant (contact Juba, cell tel. 876/851-8927) in the heart of Hope Bay on the seaside facing the road, serves Jamaican staples.

I-tal Village (cell tel. 876/898-5323, info@italvillage.com, www.italvillage.com, US$30/40 low/high season) is a mellow, simplistic, Rasta-inspired living retreat about three kilometers off the main road near Orange Bay. The retreat is near 6.5 kilometers of volcanic beaches that see virtually no outside visitors. Ital (natural) food is served to order.

BUFF BAY

Buff Bay is a dusty coastal town along the route between Port Antonio and points west. There is little to keep visitors in the area and few accommodation options. In the hills a few minutes inland along the B1, Charles Town is a Maroon community where a cultural heritage tour with the local Maroon Colonel Frank Lumsden makes a detour away from the coast--worthwhile for a few hours' visit.

The most impressive structures in Buff Bay are the courthouse and the St. George Anglican Church located across the street. St. George was the official church for the parish of St. George before it became part of Portland in 1867. The present cut-stone structure dates from 1814, but the foundation is much older. Both the church and the courthouse, which is still in use, can be accessed during business hours, and service is held on Sundays.

CHARLES TOWN

Some five kilometers above Buff Bay along what used to be an old Maroon Bridle path up the Buff Bay River (now known as the B1) is the Maroon community of Charles Town.

The Maroon Museum (free admission) located at Asafu Yard has artifacts and crafts of Maroon heritage. There's an adjoining commercial kitchen producing Jamaican cassava cakes, a gluten-free staple starch dating to the Taino and known locally as bammy.

Charles Town Maroon Colonel Frank Lumsden (cell tel. 876/445-2861) leads visitors on community tours and hikes (US$20/person) to Sambo Hill, the ruins of an 18th-century coffee plantation, Grandy Hole Cave, or Old Crawford Town, an old Maroon Village where Quao settled his people after the first Maroon War in 1739. The Colonel has a group of drummers who perform Koromanti drumming and dance.

A traditional country-style lunch (US$12/person) can be arranged at Quao's Village a bit farther upstream, where Frank's brother Keith Lumsden (cell tel. 876/440-2200) manages a swimming hole and rustic restaurant attraction. The spot is named after Maroon warrior Captain Quao (The Invisible Hunter), who, alongside Jamaica's first national hero, Nanny of the Maroons, fought off the British to assert his people's autonomy from the colonists.

A local chef treats visitors to traditional dishes like crayfish rundown (not to be missed) and saltfish rundown accompanied by boiled green banana and ground provisions (yam, coco, dasheen, pumpkin). There is an area where you can pitch a tent to overnight in Charles Town.

Practicalities

Blueberry Hill Guest House (Kildare district, near the Digicel phone tower, contact Devon or Doris Williams, cell tel. 876/913-6814, US$25–35) has seven rooms with private baths and standing fans. Some rooms have TV with a few channels. Some rooms have a nice view overlooking the sea; otherwise, the common veranda is suitable for enjoying the breeze.

B&G Jerk Centre (contact owner Glen Ford, cell tel. 876/859-5107) on the east side of town is the best spot for a roadside bite of jerk pork or chicken (US$4/quarter pound).

Hibiscus Restaurant (adjacent to courthouse, cell tel. 876/466-0946, 9 a.m.–11 p.m. Mon.–Sat., 5–11 p.m. Sun., US$2–3) serves Jamaican staples like fried chicken, curry goat, and stewed peas.

Buff Bay police station (9 First Ave., tel. 876/996-1497) is located opposite the Adventist Church.

Getting There and Around

Points between Port Antonio and Annotto Bay can be reached via route taxi or microbus for under US$5. Route taxis typically run between the closest population centers, and you will have to string together several legs for longer distances. Most route taxis also offer charter service, where rates are not regulated and have to be negotiated. A chartered car between Port Antonio and Hope Bay shouldn't cost more than US$20, with a chartered trip from Port Antonio to Buff Bay or Charles Town costing around US$50 for a couple of people.