Northern Cockpit Country

East of Montego Bay proper, Ironshore and Rose Hall cover the coast with hotels and housing developments that range from middle-class to super-luxury before reaching Greenwood, a small community once part of the Barrett estate that sits beside the sea, bordering the parish of Trelawny. The Trelawny coast has a smattering of tourism development concentrated in the area just east of Falmouth along the bay, while the inhabited parts of Trelawny's interior are covered in farming country, where yam, sugarcane, and citrus fruit are major crops. The early morning mist that rises from dew-covered cane fields makes a trip through the interior from Rock, Trelawny, to St. Ann a magical alternative to the coastal route at this time of day.

FALMOUTH

Trelawny's capital, Falmouth, is today a run-down shadow of its short-lived former Georgian prime. Nevertheless, noble and much-appreciated efforts are under way to dust off years of neglect and shine favor on the town's glorious past by restoring its architectural gems. Falmouth was formed in 1790 when the port of the former capital Martha Brae silted up and shippers needed an export base. The town was laid out in a well-organized grid and named after Falmouth, England, birthplace of then-governor William Trelawny, who lent his name to the parish. The land for the town was acquired from Edward Barrett, who owned Greenwood Estate a few kilometers west. For the town's first 40 years during the height of Jamaica's sugar production, Falmouth experienced a housing boom and was fashionable amongst the island's planter class. But as the sugar industry faded in importance, so too did Falmouth, leaving a virtual ghost town by the late 1800s.

Today, with somewhat decent roads and its close proximity to resort areas in Montego Bay, the town is attracting a growing population once more. Thanks to the efforts of a nongovernmental organization (NGO) known as Falmouth Heritage Renewal (4 Lower Harbour St., tel. 876/617-1060, jmparrent@yahoo.com, www.falmouth-jamaica.org), the town has become a laboratory for architectural restoration. Falmouth Heritage Renewal, directed by James Parrent, has been working for several years to revitalize the architectural heritage of Jamaica's most impressive Georgian town by training local youth in restoration work. The Georgian Society in Kingston (tel. 876/754-5261) has a wealth of information on Falmouth.

Falmouth is famous for its Bend Down Market, held every Wednesday since the town's founding.

Sights

The Baptist Manse (Market St., cell tel. 876/617-1060) was originally constructed as the town's Masonic Temple in 1780. The building was sold in 1832 to the Baptist Missionary Society, which had lost many buildings in raids of terror and reprisal following the slave rebellion of 1831, in response to the Baptists' fiery abolitionist rhetoric. The building was home to several Baptist missionaries before it was destroyed by fire in the 1950s, to be reconstructed as the William Knibb School in 1961. Today the building serves as headquarters for the Falmouth Heritage Renewal.

Falmouth Courthouse was built in 1815 in classic Georgian style, destroyed by fire, and rebuilt in 1926. The building stands prominently on a little square facing the water just off the main square at the center of town.

Trelawny Parish Church of St. Peter the Apostle (Duke St.) is one of the most impressive Anglican structures in Jamaica, built in typical Georgian style. It was constructed in 1795 on land donated by rich estate owner Edward Barrett, whose descendent, Elizabeth Barrett Browning, would go on to become a well-recognized feminist poet of the Romantic movement. The parish church is the oldest public building in town and the oldest house of worship in the parish.

Other historic churches in Falmouth include the Knibb Memorial Baptist Church (King and George Sts.) named after abolitionist missionary William Knibb, who came to Jamaica in 1825 and established his first chapel on the site of the existing structure, which was erected in 1926, and the Falmouth Presbyterian Church (Rodney and Princess Sts.), which was built by the Scots of the parish in 1832. Knibb's first chapel was destroyed by the nonconformist militia after the Baptist War, a.k.a. Christmas Rebellion of 1831–832. Later structures were destroyed by hurricanes. A sculpture relief inside Knibb Memorial depicts a scene (repeated at several Baptist churches across the island) of a congregation of slaves awaiting the dawn that granted full freedom in 1838.

Falmouth All Age School sits on the waterfront in a historic building and makes a good destination for a stroll down Queens Street from the square.

Shopping

Falmouth is by no means a shopping destination. Nevertheless, there is a small mall on Water Square with a few crafts shops to poke around.

For more original crafts, call Isha Tafara (cell tel. 876/610-3292 or 876/377-0505), an artist and craft producer who lives in Wakefield near Falmouth, farther inland from Martha Brae. Tafara makes red, green, and gold crocheted hats, Egyptian-style crafts, handbags, belts, and jewelry with a lot of crochet and fabric-based items. Tafara works from home, which can be visited by appointment, and supplies Things Jamaican, among other retailers.

Services

Club Nazz Bar & Restaurant (23 Market St., tel. 876/617-5175, 7 a.m.–11:30 p.m. daily) offers customers free Wi-Fi.

For groceries and supplies, try T&W Super-market by the Texaco station.

Next to the courthouse there's a Scotiabank branch built in replica Georgian style, with an ATM.

FX Trader (tel. 888/398-7233) has a branch at Big J's Supermarket on Lower Harbour Street (8:30 a.m.–4:30 p.m. Mon.–Wed. and Fri.–Sat., 8:30 a.m.–12:30 p.m. Thurs.).

Trelawny Parish Library (Rodney St., with entrance on Pitt St., tel. 876/954-3306, 9 a.m.–6 p.m. Mon.–Fri., till 4 p.m. Sat.) offers free DSL Internet.

The Falmouth Police are based along the waterfront on Rodney Street (tel. 876/954-5700).

MARTHA BRAE

The town of Martha Brae was Trelawny's first parish capital, before the mouth of the river silted up and forced the relocation of the port from Rock to Falmouth. Along with several other locations in Jamaica, Martha Brae is thought to have been the location of the first Spanish settlement of Melilla. Until 1790 when the first bridge was constructed across the river, a ferry was in service. Today, with the North Coast Highway, it's possible to speed past without noticing the river at all. Martha Brae is a literal backwater, with little to distract tourists as they pass through on their way to start the rafting trip or to Good Hope Plantation in the Queen of Spain Valley.

The Martha Brae River is one of Jamaica's longest rivers and is navigable for much of its 32 kilometers, extending to the deep interior of Trelawny, from where it wells up out of the earth at Windsor Cave. The river's name is an awkward derivation of Para Matar Tiburon Rio, which translates literally as "to kill shark river." Legends surround the Martha Brae, likely owing to its important role in the early colonial years, when the Spanish used the river to reach the North Coast from their major settlement of Oristan, around present-day Bluefields. The first commercial rafting tour began in 1970.

Just east of Martha Brae, straight inland from Falmouth, the Greenfield Stadium was built for the Caribbean's hosting of Cricket World Cup in 2007. The stadium is now used for sporting events and entertainment, becoming the venue for Jamaica Jazz and Blues Festival in 2010.

Martha Brae Rafting

Martha Brae Rafting (tel. 876/940-6398 or 876/940-7018 or 876/952-0889, info@jamaicarafting.com, www.jamaicarafting.com, 9 a.m.–4 p.m. daily) is the most developed bamboo rafting attraction in western Jamaica. Rafts hold two passengers in addition to the raft man, who guides the vessel down the lazy Martha Brae. The tour (US$55) includes a welcome drink; round-trip transport can be arranged from Mobay (US$15 per person). To reach the departure point on the Martha Brae River, exit left off the highway ramp after passing the first turnoff for Falmouth heading east. Turn inland (right) through the underpass, continuing into the small village of Martha Brae. At the intersection in the town, turn left and then right after the second bridge. The five-kilometer raft ride takes about 90 minutes. The excursion will not get the adrenaline pumping, but it's a relaxing and romantic experience.

The Luminous Lagoon

The Luminous Lagoon is one of Jamaica's favorite natural phenomena, created from a unicellular dinoflagellate less than <@fract>1/500th of an inch in diameter, Pyridium bahamense, which glows when the water is agitated. The organism photosynthesizes sunlight using chlorophyll during the day and then emits the energy at night. Tours of the Luminous Lagoon are offered at Glistening Waters Restaurant & Marina (tel. 876/954-3229, info@glisteningwaters.com, www.glisteningwaters.com) and Fisherman's Inn (tel. 876/954-4078 or 876/954-3427, fishermansinn@cwjamaica.com). The Glistening Waters tour (US$17/person) lasts half an hour, with boats leaving the marina every half hour 7–9 p.m. nightly. Fisherman's Inn organizes virtually identical outings (US$15/person) every evening at 7 p.m.

Glistening Waters also offers fishing charters from the Marina (US$600) on a 46-foot sport fisher with a capacity of eight people. A smaller, 32-foot boat (US$400/four hours) carries five people. Two complimentary drinks per person are included on fishing excursions. The marina also welcomes visiting yachts (US$1/foot/day) and can accommodate boats of up to 86 feet. Boaters should call ahead for special instructions on entering the lagoon. Longer stays can be negotiated.

Montego Bay Jamaica Fishing Charter and Luminous Lagoon Tours (contact captain David Muschett, cell tel. 876/995-9885, awahoo2@yahoo.com), based at Fisherman's Inn on the Luminous Lagoon, is a one-stop-shop for deep-sea fishing, night excursions on the lagoon, and a variety of water sports activities from parasailing to scuba diving, water skiing, and snorkeling aboard a 38-foot Bertram with an eight-person capacity. Fishing trips chase marlin, kingfish, barracuda, sailfish, wahoo, and a host of other species. Rates range from US$550 for a half day with up to four passengers to US$1,000 for eight hours with up to four passengers, including bait and tackle. Add US$35 per extra person. Paintball and ATV tours are also offered by David Muschett in the Martha Brae vicinity.

Accommodations

Queen of Spain Villa (Irwin Towers Estate, Martha Brae, contact Michele Lawrence, cell tel. 876/877-6959, michelelawrence1@yahoo.com, US$40–60 per night) has a total of five rooms available for rent in an owner-managed villa along the Martha Brae River. Three rooms have queen-size beds, and one has two single beds, with a king-size bed in the master room. Wi-Fi and continental breakfast are complimentary. There's a pool on the one-acre property and the river is also suitable for swimming.

Fisherman's Inn (tel. 876/954-4078 or 876/954-3427, fishermansinn@cwjamaica.com, from US$75) is a hotel and restaurant on the Luminous Lagoon with clean, spacious rooms overlooking the lagoon and a small marina with private baths and hot water, TV, and either fans or air-conditioning. Jean Lewis is the very helpful and accommodating manager.

The inn organizes outings every evening (US$15 per person) at 7 p.m. on the lagoon to see the phosphorescent microbes light up the agitated water.

Time 'N' Place (adjacent to Pebbles, call owner Tony Moncrieffe, tel. 876/954-4371, cell tel. 876/843-3625, timenplace@cwjamaica.com, www.mytimenplace.com) is the quintessential laid-back rustic beach spot with an open-air seafood restaurant and beach bar and four cottages planted in the sand (US$80–100). The spot has been a local favorite since it opened in 1988. The cottages are comfortably rustic, with front porches, basic foam queen-size beds, fans or air-conditioning, Jamaican art on the walls, and private bathrooms sectioned off with hot water. Tony offers coffee, fruit, and toast for breakfast. The restaurant (8 a.m.–8 p.m. daily) prepares excellent seafood and Jamaican favorites including jerk chicken, coconut shrimp, and grilled lobster, as well as burgers and fries. Wi-Fi covers the entire property.

FDR Pebbles (next to Time 'N' Place along the old main road, tel. 876/973-5657 or 876/617-2500, US$250) bills itself as an ecofriendly, family-oriented resort. The hotel is by no means exemplary in the environmental department, however, with clear signs of dumping of gray water into the bay and a generally untidy backyard. Pebbles, along with its sister property in Runaway Bay, has created the family-friendly niche by proving nannies for guests. Pebbles' private beach has been sectioned off from the expanse with a pair of stone piers. Nevertheless, guests often hop the fence to get a taste for the authentic Jamaica vibe found next door at Time 'N' Place. All rooms at Pebbles have air-conditioning, ceiling fans, and hot water.

Excellence Resorts (www.excellence-resorts.com) is building a 450-room, adults-only, luxury all-inclusive resort on five kilometers of beach adjacent to Time 'N' Place. Construction began in 2007 but completion was delayed when the global economy fell into recession in 2009.

Food

Club Nazz Bar & Restaurant (23 Market St., tel. 876/617-5175, or contact manager Carlton Cole, cell tel. 876/475-7125, 7 a.m.–11:30 p.m. daily, US$4–25) serves good seafood and Jamaican staple dishes and offers customers free Wi-Fi. The food is excellent and a good value. The Upa Level Culture Bar & Grill on the third floor serves food from the same kitchen with a view over town.

Located on the second level, Club Nazz opens Tuesdays–Sundays, from 6 p.m. until you say when, playing mostly reggae, dancehall, R&B, and hip-hop. A jazz bar and lounge is located downstairs in the basement.

In the center of Falmouth on the square there is a small Juici Patties kiosk, as well as Spicy Nice (Water Square, tel. 876/954-3197), a bakery that sells patties, breads, pastries, and other baked goods.

Three roads lead off the North Coast Highway into Falmouth, one from the east, where the old highway used to run, the other, Market Street, a straight shot to Martha Brae, and the third, Rodney Street or Foreshore Road, to the west toward Mobay. Along the easternmost road, two restaurants sit adjacent to one another on the Luminous Lagoon in Rock district.

Fisherman's Inn (tel. 876/954-4078, fishermansinn@cwjamaica.com) is a hotel and restaurant facing the lagoon. The restaurant serves items like callaloo-stuffed chicken breast, stuffed jerk chicken, lobster, and surf and turf (US$13–30).

Glistening Waters Restaurant & Marina (tel. 876/954-3229, info@glisteningwaters.com, www.glisteningwaters.com) has food ranging from oyster bay seafood chowder (US$4) to the Falmouth Seafood Platter (US$35), which comes with grilled lobster, shrimp, and snapper.

Aunt Gloria's (Rock district, cell tel. 876/353-1301, 6 a.m.–8:30 p.m. Mon.–Sat., US$3–4.50) serves brown stew fish, fried chicken, curry goat, and brown stew pork. Gloria opens her jerk center on Fridays and sometimes on Saturdays for the best jerk pork and chicken in town. Breakfast items include ackee and saltfish, kidney, dumpling, yam, and banana.

Along the same road toward Falmouth, a jerk center keeps irregular hours, mostly opening on weekends.

Culture Restaurant (Foreshore Road, contact proprietor Pablo Plummer, cell tel. 876/362-4495, 8 a.m.–8 p.m. daily, US$4–8) offers a decidedly Rasta experience and takes the cake for original roots value. It's a small restaurant and cultural center where Ital food and juices are served in an atmosphere brimming with black pride and Rastafarian symbolism. Owner Pablo Plummer is as conscious as they come and also incidentally runs independent PADI diving courses with full equipment provided, after spending years as a dive instructor at a number of resorts along the North Coast.

EAST OF FALMOUTH
Sights

Outameni Experience (Coopers Pen opposite Breezes Trelawny, tel. 876/954-4035, cell tel. 876/836-6725 or 876/409-6108, info@outameni.com, www.outameni.com, US$36 adults, US$18 children under 12) is a cultural attraction that takes visitors through Jamaica's history into modern times, from the Taino to Rastafarians. The 90-minute tour, set on a five-acre property, touches on Jamaica's art, music, theater, and dance traditions. A fun village offers children games and a water slide at an additional cost of US$3.

Duncans

A small community on a hillside overlooking the sea, Duncans has little to interest visitors in the town itself. Just below the population center, however, the coast is lined with fine, white sand, split between two spectacular beaches: Jacob Taylor Public Bathing Beach, and Silver Sands Beach along the waterfront at the gated community of Silver Sands, comprising cottages and villas. Silver Sands charges US$15 per person for day use of the beach and facilities. There's a restaurant and bar and small grocery store, the Villa Mart, at the complex. It's necessary to call ahead (tel. 876/954-2518) to gain access to Silver Sands so they expect you at the gate.

About a kilometer east of Silver Sands, a private estate house lies in ruins facing a small beach, also with fine white sand and crystal waters. To get there, turn off the main road down to Silver Sands through a green gate and drive along a rough, sandy road pocked with coral through the scrub forest until reaching the coast again.

A 20-minute walk farther east along low coral bluffs leads to Mango Point, where one of Jamaica's few remaining virgin beaches is found. Known as Harmony Cove, the area is to be the site of a massive resort development planned for the coming years, with several hotels and casinos envisaged, pending a change in Jamaica's law to allow gambling of this sort. Harmony Cove can also be reached by turning off the North Coast Highway next to a cell phone tower coming from the east; from there, drive toward the coast along a dirt road and turn off along a sandy track that disintegrates at the water's edge. Park and rejoin the road on the other side of the fence, walking the remaining distance. It's about 20 minutes' walk from the east as well. Contact Harmonisation (876/954-2518) for more information on the status of the resort development.

Silver Sands

Silver Sands (www.mysilversands.com) is a gated community of 44 rental cottages and villas that range considerably in their level of price and comfort, from rustic to opulent. Even at the higher end of the price range, Silver Sands villas are among the best value for your money to be found in Jamaica, on what is considered by many the island's finest beach.

Queen's Cottage (US$275/325 nightly, US$1925/2275 weekly low/high season) is named after the cottage's most illustrious guest, Queen Elizabeth II, who stayed there on a trip to Jamaica, and located directly on the waterfront. It is a three-bedroom villa with a king-size bed in the master, one queen-size bed in the second bedroom and two twins in the third, making it ideal for families or a small group of friends. Bedrooms have ceiling fans, air-conditioning, and private bathrooms. A large wood deck overlooks the sea a few steps off the beach. The villa boasts a large Jacuzzi and is the closest of any at Silver Sands to the water's edge.

Windjammer (tel. 876/929-2378 or 876/926-0931, dianas@cwjamaica.com or bookings@windjammerjamaica.com, www.windjammerjamaica.com, US$457/557 nightly, US$3,200/3,900 weekly low/high season) is an impeccably furnished four-bedroom luxury villa with a private pool, DSL Internet, a large veranda with sea view, and a built-in barbecue. Two bedrooms have king-size beds, one has a queen, and the fourth has two twins.

Jacob Taylor Bathing Beach

Located across the compound walls from the gated community at Silver Sands, Jacob Taylor Bathing Beach is a local hot spot where low-key craft vendors sell their goods and anglers park their canoes to while away the days playing dominoes in the shade. The beach itself extends for a few kilometers to the west, and while not immaculately swept and maintained daily like Silver Sands, the sand is fine, the water's clear, and there's no entry fee. You can't miss the entrance to Jacob Taylor Bathing Beach, marked by a large sign by the road that leads downhill toward the sea to the left of the gated entrance to Silver Sands.

Accommodations

The Sober Robin Inn (tel. 876/954-2202, soberrobin@gmail.com, US$35 d) is a no-frills accommodation opened in 1979 that rents nine rooms, each with one double or two single beds, air-conditioning, and cable TV. The inn was under expansion in 2010, with additional rooms under construction for a projected total of 23. The inn was once owned by the grandparents of Harry Belafonte, who is said to have spent his childhood there. It is located just past the Silver Sands turnoff heading west out of Duncans, or on the right just after leaving the highway on your way into Duncans from the west.

Sea Rhythm (Jacob Taylor Bathing Beach, contact caretaker Cardella Gilzine, cell tel. 876/857-0119, US$200) is a three-bedroom cottage a few steps from the shore. The master bedroom has a king-size bed and air-conditioning, with a double bed and fan in the second room and two twins in the third. Each room has a private bath with hot water, and there's a fully equipped kitchen. Meals are prepared to order.

Food

Leroy's (cell tel. 876/447-2896, US$3–12) is a local bar and restaurant, located seaside at Jacob Taylor Fisherman's Beach that serves fish and Jamaican staples. Leroy can usually be found in the kitchen, and his step daughter, Cameika "Chin" Wallace, works the bar. The Silver Lights Band performs live reggae on Saturdays starting at 8 p.m. late into the night. The no-frills restaurant and bar is notable for its relaxing atmosphere that draws a healthy mix of locals and tourists, appreciably devoid of hustlers to interrupt the quiet seaside landscape.

GREENWOOD

Natural Vibes Gift Shop Bar & Restaurant (Long Bay, Greenwood, tel. 876/953-1833, 8 a.m.–10:30 p.m. daily) has a mix of seafood and Jamaican favorites like curry lobster (US$25), curry shrimp (US$20), escovitch fish (US$15), jerk chicken (US$10), and jerk pork (US$12–13). The waterfront property is a favorite chill-out spot for Montegonians and tourists alike.

Father Bull Bar, Jerk Centre and Restaurant (Greenwood, cell tel. 876/422-3011, 8 a.m. until you say when daily) specializes in jerk chicken and pork, roast fish, seafood, and Jamaican staples, accompanied by breadfruit.

Far Out Fish Hut and Beer Joint (Greenwood, contact owner Ian Dalley, cell tel. 876/954-7155 or 876/816-6376, 10 a.m.–10:30 p.m.) serves steamed and roast fish, conch, octopus, and escovitch grilled conch, accompanied by bammy or bread.

Johnnie Reid's Paradise Grill & Restaurant (contact Johnnie Reid, cell tel. 876/863-4659, 10 a.m.–close), located in Salt Marsh between Greenwood and Martha Brae, serves Jamaican staples, seafood, and conch (US$5–8), as well as fish and lobster priced according to weight.

Cockpit Country

Some of the most gorgeous and unexplored countryside in Jamaica lies in the interior of Trelawny, where Cockpit Country, with its myriad caves, sinkholes, and springs, stretches from the St. James border in the west to St. Ann at the heart of the island. Hiking and exploring in this region is unparalleled, but adequate supplies and a good guide are essential. Meanwhile, the Queen of Spain Valley, only a few minutes' drive inland, is one of the most lush and picturesque farming zones in Jamaica, where the morning mist lifts to reveal stunning countryside of magical, lush pitted hills.

Cockpit Country has some of the most unusual landscape on earth, where porous limestone geology created what is known as Karst topography, molded by water and the weathering of time. Cockpit Country extends all the way to Accompong, St. Elizabeth, to the south and Albert Town, Trelawny, to the east. Similar topography continues over the inhospitable interior as far as Cave Valley, St. Ann, even farther east.

There are three principal routes leading into Trelawny's interior and providing access to the northern border of the impassible Cockpit Country. The first few routes lead inland from Martha Brae. To get to Good Hope Plantation, bypass the town of Martha Brae to the right when heading inland from the highway, and take a left less than 1.5 kilometers past the town, following well-marked signs. Continuing on the road past the turnoff to Good Hope ultimately leads to Wakefield, where the B15 heads back west to Montego Bay.

By taking a left at the stop sign in Martha Brae, and then a right after crossing the river, the road leads inland past Perth, Reserve, and Sherwood Content, to where it ultimately peters out near Windsor Caves.

Queen of Spain Valley

Good Hope Plantation (cell tel. 876/469-3443, goodhope1@cwjamaica.com, www.goodhopejamaica.com) located in the Queen of Spain Valley, is one of the most picturesque working estates on the island. Citrus has today replaced the cane of the past, while the plantation's great house and a collection of its historic buildings have been converted into the most luxurious countryside villas, with a total of 10 bedrooms between the main house, the carriage house, and the river cottage (rates starting at US$3,500/4,400 weekly low/high season for 3BR River Cottage). Good Hope features old-world luxury that sets itself apart from any other accommodation option on the island, with authentic antique furniture decorating every room, while not skipping the modern luxuries like iPods and air-conditioning. The villas are fully staffed with the most professional chefs, housekeepers, and gardeners to be found anywhere.

Good Hope is the ideal place for family retreats, birding, hiking, and mountain biking. There is no better place for horseback riding, which is still the best means of exploring the surrounding countryside. Of course, the inviting swimming pools and a brimming river make relaxation a favorite pastime for guests as well. Good Hope is rented through the owners.

David Pinto's Ceramic Studio (8 km north of Falmouth, cell tel. 876/886-2866, dpinto@cwjamaica.com, www.jamaicaclay.com, 8 a.m.–4 p.m. Mon.–Fri. or by appointment) is run by a Jamaican-born potter who studied ceramics during high school in the United Kingdom and later at Rhode Island School of Design before practicing in New York City. He returned to Jamaica in 1992 to establish his present studio in the Queen of Spain Valley on Good Hope Plantation, where he runs retreats led by internationally acclaimed guest master potters. Pinto's work includes both functional and decorative pieces and is on display in the permanent collection at the National Gallery in Kingston. A stop by Pinto's bustling studio with its five kilns is a great excuse to visit the spectacular grounds of Good Hope, a working citrus plantation.

Albert Town

A small hamlet at the edge of Cockpit Country, Albert Town is the center of Trelawny's yam-growing region, which celebrates the crop each year with the Trelawny Yam Festival. Albert Town is the base for the South Trelawny Environmental Agency (STEA) (tel. 876/610-0818, www.stea.net), which organizes the yam festival and also offers guided excursions with its Cockpit Country Adventure Tours outfit in the surrounding area. They offer four different tours that cover caving and hiking. STEA is one of the best-organized environmental advocacy organizations in the country.

Windsor

Located at the farthest accessible point into Cockpit Country, Windsor is a small community. Windsor Great Caves is its main draw. Franklyn (Dango) Taylor is the sanctioned warden for the Jamaica Conservation and Development Trust (JCDT) and the official guide for Windsor Great Caves. The caves are best visited with Dango (US$20), though experienced cavers may prefer to go it alone. All visitors should check in with Dango, and sign the guestbook at the very least, which serves to both monitor efforts and provide some degree of accountability in the case of emergencies. Dango runs a little shop selling drinks and snacks. The source of the Martha Brae River is located nearby, affording a great spot to cool off.

The Windsor Caves are rich in both geological history and animal life, with up to 11 bat species emerging to feed in the evenings in large swarms. The geological formations should not be touched inside the caves, and a minimal-impact policy should be generally observed, which starts with visitors staying on the established path. Shining flashlights on the ceiling is also not advisable, since it disturbs the resting bats. Michael Schwartz, of Windsor Great House located nearby, warns of a chronic respiratory ailment caused by a fungus that grows on bat dung, afflicting cavers.

For more in-depth spelunking of lesser-known attractions, Jamaica Caves Organization (JCO) (info@jamaicancaves.org, www.jamaicancaves.org) is a useful group that knows Cockpit Country literally inside and out. It can arrange guides for hiking as well as caving. There is also a good circuit mapped out on its website to take a driving tour of Cockpit Country for those not interested in exercise. For those with a serious interest in hiking, the Troy Trail is one of the most interesting and arduous hikes in western Jamaica, traversing Cockpit Country from Windsor to Troy. Again, the JCO can provide guides and maps for a reasonable fee that goes toward helping to maintain the organization.

Accommodations

The Last Resort (Ivor Conolley tel. 876/931-6070, cell tel. 876/700-7128, iscapc@cwjamaica.com) is the most remote accommodation option in Cockpit Country. It's the headquarters for Jamaica Caves Organization, led by chairman Stefan Stewart. The facilities were recently renovated but remain rustic with 20 bunk beds (US$15 per person) and a common bath. One private room has a queen-size bed. Expect intimacy with the surrounding environment--bug repellent is an essential item.

Windsor Great House (cell tel. 876/997-3832, windsor@cwjamaica.com, www.cockpitcountry.com) was built by John Tharp in 1795 to oversee his vast cattle estate, which included most of the land bordering the Martha Brae River. Today the great house is operated by Michael Schwartz and Susan Koenig, who offer rustic accommodation and a weekly "Meet the Scientists" dinner (US$25 for the dinner).

Getting There

To get to Windsor, head inland from Falmouth to Martha Brae, crossing the bridge to the east and turning right to follow the valley south into the hills. On the way, the road passes through the small farming communities of Perth Town and Reserve. Once the road leaves the riverbanks, it heads to Sherwood Content, Coxheath, and finally Windsor. To get to Last Resort, turn right at Dango's shop, continuing for about 1.6 kilometers; a left at Dango's shop leads to Windsor Great House. A vehicle with good clearance is recommended, but the route is traveled frequently by vehicles with low clearance, driven with caution.

BURWOOD BEACH

The small community neighboring SuperClubs Breezes Trelawny has the spectacular Burwood Beach in Bounty Bay, which is also called Mutiny Bay. It's the best spot in Jamaica for windsurfing and kite surfing thanks to its gradual slope and lack of reefs that make these sports perilous in most other areas of the island. Brian Schurton runs Brian's Windsurfing and Kitesurfing (cell tel. 876/586-0900 or 541/490-2047, bws@gorge.net) with an informal windsurfing and kite-surfing school and rental outfit on the beach. With essential equipment like harnesses lacking in most of the all-inclusive resorts, windsurfers will find more professional gear at Brian's. Rates run US$160 for a 2.5-hour kitesurfing lesson. Windsurfing is US$60/day for gear, US$70 for a two-hour lesson. To get there, turn off the highway toward the sea about 1.5 kilometers east of Breezes Trelawny next to a sign for Bounty Bay.

Accommodations

Breezes Trelawny (Coopers Pen, Falmouth on Burwood Beach, tel. 876/954-2450 or U.S. tel. 800/GO-SUPER (800/467-8737), www.superclubs.com, US$99/139 per person low/high season) is the place to go if you love water slides, video gaming, trapeze acrobatics, and water sports. Rooms come with a stocked fridge, TV, air-conditioning, and CD player, but with all the activities in store, you won't be there much. Starfish is the SuperClubs brand's most budget-friendly and family-oriented property.

Breezes Rio Bueno (tel. 876/954-0000 or U.S. tel. 800/GO-SUPER (800/467-8737), glbreservations@superclubs.com, www.superclubs.com, US$224/349 per person low/high season) is the second all-inclusive in Jamaica, centered on a re-created and much-tamer-than-typical Jamaican village courtyard area, where dinners are served under the stars. Rooms are luxurious by American standards, with spacious suites that have balconies and large sitting areas. All the amenities of home are there, and the fridge is stocked daily with beer and soft drinks. Breezes has a decent beach and large swimming pool areas with the best food of the SuperClubs properties and premium liquors. The hotel sits on a 34-hectare estate. Horseback riding and tennis are some of the more popular activities at the resort, while water sports like scuba, snorkeling, and sailing are also offered.

Braco Stables (tel. 876/954-0185, bracostables@cwjamaica.com, www.bracostables.com, US$70 with transportation from Mobay or Runaway Bay, US$60 without transport) offers very tame horseback riding tours where riders traverse the Braco estate in single file. Experienced riders may be disappointed, as there is little freedom to roam about and leaving the group is not an option.

RIO BUENO

The first community in Trelawny across the border from St. Ann, Rio Bueno is considered by many experts to have been the actual landing point for Christopher Columbus on his second voyage, while that claim is also made for Discovery Bay. The port at Rio Bueno was an important export point, as can still be seen by the dilapidated warehouses and wharves along the waterfront beside the community's only accommodation, the Rio Bueno Hotel.

The small village is today undergoing somewhat of a renewal, with the new North Coast Highway bypassing the town entirely, which could ultimately enhance its picturesque appeal even while the busy Rio Braco rest stop will be less relevant.

The riverbank along the Rio Bueno is great for a stroll; visitors can see ruins of the Baptist Theological College. The college was the first of its kind in the hemisphere. Other ruins in town include those of Fort Dundas behind the school. The Rio Bueno Baptist Church was originally built in 1832 before being destroyed by the Colonial Church Union, whose mostly Anglican members organized militias to terrorize the abolitionist Baptists, who were upsetting the status quo. The church was quickly rebuilt twice as large in 1834, and the present structure was built in 1901. While the roof is largely missing, services are still held downstairs.

The Rio Bueno Anglican Chuch was built at the water's edge in 1833 and remains there today. The church was petitioned by the community after years of attending service in a rented space.

The extensive Gallery Joe James, on the grounds of the Lobster Bowl and Rio Bueno Hotel, displays artwork by proprietor Joe James, among other selected Jamaican artists. The gallery extends throughout the restaurant, bar, and hotel and makes for a surreal waterfront setting. The restaurant itself is enormous, with outside seating extending out on a dock along the waterfront, as well as inside a large dining hall.

The Rio Bueno Primary School up the road is sometimes used for entertainment and events.

Accommodations and Food

Rio Bueno Hotel (tel. 876/954-0048, galleryjoejames40@hotmail.com, US$100) is a 20-room rustic accommodation with balconies overlooking the sea, ceiling fans, TV, and hot water in private baths. The ground floor rooms are larger and geared toward families, with three double beds.

The Lobster Bowl Restaurant (tel. 876/954-0048, 8 a.m.–10 p.m. daily, US$18–40) serves excellent shrimp, chicken, fish, and lobster. The restaurant was founded by Joe James and his wife, Joyce Burke James, over 40 years ago.