Negril and the West

Food

Hanover and Westmoreland are Jamaica's westernmost parishes. Hanover wraps around from Montego Bay on its northeastern border to where Negril's large hotel strip overflows from Westmoreland at its western reaches. It's a picturesque parish with small mountains tapering down to the coast with rivers, lush valleys, and deep, navigable coves. Caves dot the landscape of some of Jamaica's most biologically diverse ecosystems, in the shadow of the Dolphin Head mountain range.

Negril, which straddles the Hanover\Westmoreland border, has become a mass-market destination popular among Jamaicans and foreign visitors alike. The Kingstonian phenomenon of a weekend escape to "country" often implies a trip west to kick back and adopt the beach life, which necessarily involves taking in spectacular sunsets and the enviable slow pace evoked in Tyrone Taylor's 1983 hit, "Cottage in Negril." A constant stream of new visitors also gives hustlers a chance to do their thing, and Negril has gained a reputation as a mecca for sinful indulgence as a result.

While Negril is the region's most well-known draw, there are several low-key communities farther east that are just as easily accessible from Montego Bay's international airport and worthy coastal destinations in themselves, namely Little Bay, Bluefields, Belmont, and Whitehouse. The Westmoreland interior consists of vast alluvial plains on either side of Cabarita River, still some of Jamaica's most productive sugarcane territory. The plains extend from the base of the Orange Hill, just east of Negril, to where the Roaring River rises out of the earth from its underground source in the hills above Blue Hole Garden.

Hanover exists as a parish since it was portioned off from Westmoreland in 1723 and given the name of English monarch George I of the House of Hanover. The Spanish first settled the area when New Seville was abandoned in 1534 and the capital moved to Spanish Town. Lucea became prosperous, with a busier port than Montego Bay in its heyday, which served 16 large sugar estates in the area. Remnants of many estate great houses dot the landscape to the east and west of Lucea, their abandoned ruins showing evidence of having been torched and destroyed during slave riots. Kennilworth, Barbican, and Tryall are a few of the old estates that have visible ruins; although they have been declared national heritage sites, they are not maintained.

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The Boat Bar

The Boat Bar (between Rondel Village and Mariposa, 8 a.m.\10 p.m daily, US$10\30) is a favorite that has been serving chicken, fish, shrimp, goat, pork, and steak since 1983. The garlic lobster gets rave reviews. Bunny and Angie are the proprietors. A webcam is set up on Fridays, viewable at www.realnegril.com, to allow fans to keep in touch.

In: Food, Jamaican

Chill Awhile

Chill Awhile (at Idle Awhile Resort, opens 7 a.m.\9 p.m daily) offers free lounge chairs and wireless Internet for its customers. The charming beachfront deck restaurant serves a variety of light food items for lunch including club sandwiches, burgers, fish and chips (US$6\8), and jerk chicken (US$10).

In: Food

Ristorante da Gino

Ristorante da Gino (7 a.m.\11 p.m daily) is a good Italian restaurant managed by Vivian Reid, the wife of the late Gino. He was killed in 2005, allegedly by Italian thugs. The menu includes mixed salad (US$5), spaghetti alioli (US$10), linguine lobster (US$20), grilled lobster (US$25), and mixed grilled fish (US$30). A complete breakfast (US$10) comes with eggs and bacon, toast, fruit, juice, and coffee. Gino's also has a decent selection of Italian wines.

In: Food, Italian

Marley's by the Sea

Marley's by the Sea does breakfast (8 a.m.\10 p.m), lunch by the beach grill, and dinner with a rotating menu including items like shrimp linguini (US$15) or pan-fried pork and mozzarella (US$18).

In: Food

LTU Pub & Restaurant

LTU Pub & Restaurant (7 a.m.\11 p.m daily, US$10\30) has good Jamaican and international food in a laid-back setting perched on the cliffs. Specialties include crab quesadilla, stuffed jalapeño, and crab ball appetizers, plus schnitzel, surf and turf, pasta, chicken, and seafood dishes like grilled salmon and the snapper papaya boat. The name of the place is taken from the Germany-based airline Lufthansa Transport United, of which founder Walter Bigge was a shareholder.

In: Food, Seafood

The Hungry Lion

The Hungry Lion (West End, 4\10:30 p.m daily, closed in Oct., US$8\24), under the ownership of Bertram Saulter, who also owns The Caves, is an excellent dinner spot with healthy-sized entrèes. The lobster burritos are delicious. A pleasant atmosphere is created with irie music, carved faces, and mellow tones covering the walls. The Hungry Lion is good value for the money, and the drink special--the Lion Heart, made with mango, ginger, and rum--shouldn't be missed.

In: Food

Hammond's Pastry Place

Hammond's Pastry Place (at the roundabout, 8 a.m.\6 p.m Mon.\Sat.) serves patties, cakes, and deli sandwiches.

In: Food, Cafés & Pastry Shops

Pancake House at Firefly

Pancake House at Firefly (7 a.m.\10 p.m) serves breakfast all day, with pancakes, eggs, French toast, and breakfast sandwiches. Cheapest Red Stripe on the beach (US$1.50) is here.

In: Food

The Health Shop

The Health Shop (10 a.m.\6 p.m Mon.\Thurs., 10 a.m.\4:30 p.m Fri.) sells whole-wheat vegetarian patties, hearty juice blends, and other natural foods at local prices.

In: Food, Vegetarian

Ras Rody

Ras Rody (across from Tensing Pen, 10 a.m.\6 p.m) is an Ital food shop that specializes in soups, normally red pea soup (US$8\10) and other vegetarian specialties of the day.

In: Vegetarian