Negril and the West

Food

Hanover and Westmoreland are Jamaica's westernmost parishes. Hanover wraps around from Montego Bay on its northeastern border to where Negril's large hotel strip overflows from Westmoreland at its western reaches. It's a picturesque parish with small mountains tapering down to the coast with rivers, lush valleys, and deep, navigable coves. Caves dot the landscape of some of Jamaica's most biologically diverse ecosystems, in the shadow of the Dolphin Head mountain range.

Negril, which straddles the Hanover\Westmoreland border, has become a mass-market destination popular among Jamaicans and foreign visitors alike. The Kingstonian phenomenon of a weekend escape to "country" often implies a trip west to kick back and adopt the beach life, which necessarily involves taking in spectacular sunsets and the enviable slow pace evoked in Tyrone Taylor's 1983 hit, "Cottage in Negril." A constant stream of new visitors also gives hustlers a chance to do their thing, and Negril has gained a reputation as a mecca for sinful indulgence as a result.

While Negril is the region's most well-known draw, there are several low-key communities farther east that are just as easily accessible from Montego Bay's international airport and worthy coastal destinations in themselves, namely Little Bay, Bluefields, Belmont, and Whitehouse. The Westmoreland interior consists of vast alluvial plains on either side of Cabarita River, still some of Jamaica's most productive sugarcane territory. The plains extend from the base of the Orange Hill, just east of Negril, to where the Roaring River rises out of the earth from its underground source in the hills above Blue Hole Garden.

Hanover exists as a parish since it was portioned off from Westmoreland in 1723 and given the name of English monarch George I of the House of Hanover. The Spanish first settled the area when New Seville was abandoned in 1534 and the capital moved to Spanish Town. Lucea became prosperous, with a busier port than Montego Bay in its heyday, which served 16 large sugar estates in the area. Remnants of many estate great houses dot the landscape to the east and west of Lucea, their abandoned ruins showing evidence of having been torched and destroyed during slave riots. Kennilworth, Barbican, and Tryall are a few of the old estates that have visible ruins; although they have been declared national heritage sites, they are not maintained.

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Erica's Cafe

Erica's Cafe (5\10 p.m daily) has excellent Jamaican staples. Many locals consider Erica's the best stewed chicken (US$5) on the island.

In: Food, Jamaican

The Health Shop

The Health Shop (10 a.m.\6 p.m Mon.\Thurs., 10 a.m.\4:30 p.m Fri.) sells whole-wheat vegetarian patties, hearty juice blends, and other natural foods at local prices.

In: Food, Vegetarian

Ras Rody

Ras Rody (across from Tensing Pen, 10 a.m.\6 p.m) is an Ital food shop that specializes in soups, normally red pea soup (US$8\10) and other vegetarian specialties of the day.

In: Vegetarian

Canoe Beach Bar & Grill

Canoe Beach Bar & Grill serves Jamaican favorites at reasonable prices.

In: Jamaican

Pancake House at Firefly

Pancake House at Firefly (7 a.m.\10 p.m) serves breakfast all day, with pancakes, eggs, French toast, and breakfast sandwiches. Cheapest Red Stripe on the beach (US$1.50) is here.

In: Food

3 Dives Jerk Centre

3 Dives Jerk Centre offers a quarter chicken with bread (US$3.50) or with rice and peas and vegetables (US$4.50), half chicken with rice and peas and veggies (US$8), steamed or curried shrimp (US$17), and grilled lobster (US$34). This is the place to get jerk on the West End. Located right on the cliffs, the open-air restaurant has a nice outdoor barbecue vibe. The 3 Dives hosts the Negril Jerk Festival every November.

In: Jerk

Beach Road SeaFood Restaurant

Beach Road SeaFood Restaurant (across from Roots Bamboo, 8 a.m.\9 p.m Mon.\Sat., free delivery) serves fish, lobster, soursop fish, conch, and shrimp. Devon "Tiger" Reid is the shop owner. Late Night Hot Spot Bar is located next door.

In: Food, Seafood

Sweet Spice

Sweet Spice (opens 8:30 a.m.\10:30 p.m daily, US$5\25) is the best place along the main road heading toward Sav for typical Jamaican fare at local prices. Sweet Spice is the most popular restaurant with locals for good reason, offering refreshing real-world value in a town where prices are more regularly on par with U.S. cities. Dishes like fried chicken, coconut curry, or escoveitch fish, conch, and lobster are representative of Jamaica's traditional cuisine.

In: Food, Jamaican

The Black Star Line

The Black Star Line is an Ital restaurant located at Bongo's Farm in Sheffield, serving natural foods out of calabash bowls, natural juices, and jelly coconut water. The eatery is open by reservation only.

In: Food, Vegetarian

Rankcle Stankcle

Rankcle Stankcle fish shop, run by Owen Keith Oliver "Taurus" Morgan operates out of a riverside corner of the Negril Fishing Cooperative.

In: Food, Seafood