Negril and the West

Food

Hanover and Westmoreland are Jamaica's westernmost parishes. Hanover wraps around from Montego Bay on its northeastern border to where Negril's large hotel strip overflows from Westmoreland at its western reaches. It's a picturesque parish with small mountains tapering down to the coast with rivers, lush valleys, and deep, navigable coves. Caves dot the landscape of some of Jamaica's most biologically diverse ecosystems, in the shadow of the Dolphin Head mountain range.

Negril, which straddles the Hanover\Westmoreland border, has become a mass-market destination popular among Jamaicans and foreign visitors alike. The Kingstonian phenomenon of a weekend escape to "country" often implies a trip west to kick back and adopt the beach life, which necessarily involves taking in spectacular sunsets and the enviable slow pace evoked in Tyrone Taylor's 1983 hit, "Cottage in Negril." A constant stream of new visitors also gives hustlers a chance to do their thing, and Negril has gained a reputation as a mecca for sinful indulgence as a result.

While Negril is the region's most well-known draw, there are several low-key communities farther east that are just as easily accessible from Montego Bay's international airport and worthy coastal destinations in themselves, namely Little Bay, Bluefields, Belmont, and Whitehouse. The Westmoreland interior consists of vast alluvial plains on either side of Cabarita River, still some of Jamaica's most productive sugarcane territory. The plains extend from the base of the Orange Hill, just east of Negril, to where the Roaring River rises out of the earth from its underground source in the hills above Blue Hole Garden.

Hanover exists as a parish since it was portioned off from Westmoreland in 1723 and given the name of English monarch George I of the House of Hanover. The Spanish first settled the area when New Seville was abandoned in 1534 and the capital moved to Spanish Town. Lucea became prosperous, with a busier port than Montego Bay in its heyday, which served 16 large sugar estates in the area. Remnants of many estate great houses dot the landscape to the east and west of Lucea, their abandoned ruins showing evidence of having been torched and destroyed during slave riots. Kennilworth, Barbican, and Tryall are a few of the old estates that have visible ruins; although they have been declared national heritage sites, they are not maintained.

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Spring Park Restaurant

Spring Park Restaurant (open 8 a.m.\10 p.m daily, US$5\10), is run by Henry Gardener, a pig farmer who makes the best roast pork around, as well as fried and grilled chicken. Henry also does Jamaican breakfast every day.

In: Food, Jerk

Ossie's Jerk Centre

Ossie's Jerk Centre (opposite The Palms, opens10 a.m.\10 p.m daily, US$5\10, cash only), serves the best steamed fish and jerk on the beach. A beer costs about US$2.

In: Food, Jerk

Sonia's

Sonia's (across from Roots Bamboo, 8 a.m.\9 p.m daily, US$5\10) is well recognized for her delicious Jamaican cuisine and homemade patties.

In: Food, Jerk

Peppa Pot

Peppa Pot (opens 9 a.m.\8 p.m Mon.\Sat., US$4\10) is located a bit farther down Whitehall Road heading east out of Negril. It's a popular local joint for jerk, as well as steamed fish with the requisite sides of breadfruit and festival.

In: Food, Jerk

Ackee Tree Restaurant

Ackee Tree Restaurant (8 a.m.-10 p.m daily, US$5-8) serves the best Ital stew and local dishes and is frequented by popular artists in the know. Noel "Wall" Masters runs the joint.

In: Food, Vegetarian

Rankcle Stankcle

Rankcle Stankcle fish shop, run by Owen Keith Oliver "Taurus" Morgan operates out of a riverside corner of the Negril Fishing Cooperative.

In: Food, Seafood

Niah's Patties

Niah's Patties (10 a.m.-8 p.m daily Dec. 15-May 15) at Wavz Entertainment Centre, has been making the best patties in Negril, and perhaps all of Jamaica, since 2005. Patty fillings include Italian, fish, red bean, potato, chicken, vegetable, and lobster (US$4-8).

 

 

In: Food, Jamaican

Alfred's Ocean Palace

Alfred's Ocean Palace has been in operation since 1982. Jamaican and international cuisine with chicken, shrimp, and fish dishes (US$10\15) is served 8 a.m.\10:30 p.m daily in high season; the kitchen closes at 9 p.m in the low season. Alfred's also has eight double- and triple-occupancy rooms (US$40\50). Sundays, Tuesdays, and Fridays are Live Reggae Beach Party nights, which typically feature local acts (US$4) with occasional big-name international acts like Toots and Capleton (US$10\15).

In: Attractions, Bars, Food

On The Rocks

On The Rocks (noon\midnight daily) is an interesting bar with what looks like a drive-in movie theater in its parking lot. Movies are played nightly (free admission), and popcorn and ice cream are served. Inexpensive drinks in a vibesy setting close to the water's edge make this a good place to down a mid-evening drink before hitting the clubs.

In: Bars, Food

Sexy Rexy Sunset Cliff

Sexy Rexy Sunset Cliff  (10 a.m.\6 a.m.daily) serves Jamaican and vegetarian dishes with a cliff-side bar ideal for taking in sunsets. Rexy Tomlinson established the joint in 1978.

In: Bars, Food, Vegetarian