West of Ocho Rios

Food

As you head west from Ocho Rios, the North Coast Highway hugs the waterfront passing Dolphin Cove, Dunn's River Falls, and Laughing Waters before reaching a cluster of villas and resorts that front Mammee Bay. Just past the entrance to the resorts, an Epping gas station marks the junction where Scotchie's Jerk Centre occupies one corner across the highway from the Drax Hall Polo Club.

Continuing west, the next community is St. Ann's Bay, a busy town with one of the better hospitals on the North Coast and a few attractions worth stopping for, including Seville Great House and Heritage Park and the Marcus Garvey Statue by the Parish Library.

Still farther west, the small community of Priory sits along a dusty stretch of highway with few passersby stopping there, except on Sundays when the community's public beach comes alive for dance parties. From Priory westward the highway passes Richmond Estate, used as a venue for several annual events, a few subdivisions in various stages of construction, and Chukka Cove. 

The next community of any size is Runaway Bay, where several hotels are wedged between the highway and waterfront. Runaway Bay is lined with a strip of fine sand with all-inclusive resorts like The Jewel Runaway Bay and The Jewel Paradise Cove commanding the choice properties at the center and eastern tip of the Bay, respectively. The center of the Runaway Bay community consists of a few strips of buildings that include hole-in-the-wall restaurants, grocery stores, and a multitude of small dive bars decorated with strands of colored Christmas lights.

While many would suggest the bay was named after the flight of Don Cristobal Arnaldo de Ysassi, Spanish Governor of Jamaica at the time of the British takeover, Ysassi actually fled from Christopher's Point in St. Mary, and the more likely story involves the flight of runaway slaves to Cuba to seek their freedom.

From Runaway Bay the highway continues westward to Discovery Bay, the last settlement of any size before the Trelawny border. Discovery Bay is one of Jamaica's most exclusive villa communities, the eastern side of the bay dotted with luxury villas. In the center of the bay the Noranda bauxite wharf feeds ships from an immense domed storage facility made famous as Dr. No's lair in Ian Fleming's first James Bond film.

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Roxborough Restaurant Bar & Grill

Seaside, opposite the turnoff to St. Ann’s Bay, the Roxborough Restaurant Bar & Grill (10am- 10pm daily) specializes in reasonably priced seafood like brown stewed conch, steamed fish, coconut crusted, or grilled lobster (US$16-25) served with sides of festival, rice- and-peas, fries, bammy, or creamed potatoes.

In: Food

Stush in the Bush

Inspired vegetarian and seafood farm- to-table lunch and dinners at Stush in the Bush (by reservation only Sun.-Fri., from US$55) include a tour of the hosts’ Zionites Farm and medicinal plants. Quarterly moon- light dinners and yoga brunches are held throughout the year.

In: Food

Angler's

Angler’s (US$12-35) serves shrimp, conch, octopus, fish, lobster steam, brown stew, and grilled shrimp kebab. Try the seafood combo for a taste of almost everything on the menu, or shrimp feast or lobster feast platters to feed nine or so.

In: Food

Bamboo Blu

Bamboo Blu (10am-10pm daily, by reservation only, US$12-40) is a beachfront bar and restaurant serving soup, breadfruit chips, saltfish bammy bruschetta, crab wontons, spicy shrimp, and heavier dishes like grilled lobster, coconut rundown snapper, and fish-and-chips. To get here, go through the gate marked Mammee Bay Estate adjacent to the entrance to Riu; the entrance is about one kilometer (0.6 miles) in on the right.

In: Food

Seaside Dutchie

Seaside Dutchie (11a.m.-11p.m. daily, US$3-20) opened 10 October 2017 in an unassuming seaside lot adjacent to Fantasy Beach Club at Priory Beach. Husband-and-wife team Mark Cole and Taydeen Oliver created an extensive menu that adds flair to Jamaican favorites like steamed fish and red pea soup, all served in traditional aluminum Dutch pots. Starters range from conch fritters to wings, ackee and saltfish spring rolls, tostones and escoveitch or blackened sprat. Soups also include goat head, pumpkin and the "Swim Around" with fish, corn salsa and veggies.

In: Jamaican