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Winnifred, known as the people’s beach, lies in a wide, shallow, white-sand cove. It is a beautiful, free public beach in the Fairy Hill district just east of San San and the Blue Lagoon. It’s also the best place for conch soup and fried fish. Food and beverages are sold by a slew of vendors, and there’s a nice restaurant.

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Errol Flynn Marina has a well-maintained, private beach for guests of the Marina and patrons of Norma’s at the Marina.

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Cristal Night Club (open 5 p.mclose Wed. and Sat.) is Port Antonio’s newest club, reopening in March 2009 after years of dormancy. The club features Ladies’ Night 11 p.m2 a.m.Wednesday with free drinks all night for the ladies, and the Portland Day Rave starting at 5 p.m on Saturday, morphing into the club sessions that go through the night.

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Nautilus (US$900/night/US$6,300 weekly) is a beautiful three-bedroom villa with a large deck extending over the water between Pellew Island and Blue Hole.

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Anna Banana Restaurant (11 a.m.11 p.m daily) serves seafood and meat items prepared with Jamaican, Caribbean and soul food flair. Fish dishes cost about US$12/pound, with the pepper shrimp (highly recommended) at US$16/pound.

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Ambassabeth Cabins (Bowden Pen, from US$70-90 for two; US$25 for a tent that can sleep eight), owned and operated by the Bowden Pen Farmers Asssociation, is the most remote accommodation option in the Rio Grande Valley, located above Millbank. The famous Cunha Cunha Pass Trail leaves from Ambassabeth, as does a trail leading to Bernard Spring Falls.

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7. ATM

ATM withdrawals are usually the most convenient way to get cash, but foreign charges and poor exchange rates are drawbacks. Depending on the amount you are changing, a few lost dollars in fees and rates can be worth the convenience. All the major banks will cash travelers checks, but lines are typically long, slow-moving, and overwhelmingly frustrating.

Kingston is home to two daily newspapers, the Jamaica Gleaner (www.jamaica-gleaner.com) and the Jamaica Observer (www.jamaicaobserver.com), and a weekly, the Sunday Herald (www.sunheraldja,com), all of which a

ARRIVING BY AIR

Regular airlines from the United States and Canada into Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport include Air Jamaica, Spirit Airlines, JetBlue Airways, Air Canada, American, Delta, and US Airways.

Virgin Atlantic and British Airways offer service from London to Montego Bay and Kingston.

At one time an important port town for export of the area's annatto crop, from whence it got its name, Annotto Bay is today bustling only by the busy taxi stand in the center of town. Otherwise, sleepy is a good description.