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Amnesia (US$3–7, cash only) is Ochi's most authentic, down-market Jamaican nightclub. Thursday is Ladies' Night and gets quite busy, with a regular after-work jam and occasional deejay performances on Fridays. Muddy Mondays features mud wrestling.

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Columbus Heights Apartments, managed by Jennifer Llewellyn, is a large condo complex on a hill overlooking Ocho Rios, affording great views. Studios and one- and two-bedroom apartments with air-conditioning and hot water range US$100–200, with a US$20 difference between low and high season. Longer stays afford reduced rates.

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Almond Tree Restaurant (7:30 a.m.–10:30 a.m., noon–2:30 p.m., 6–9:30 p.m. daily) serves a mix of Jamaican and international dishes like lobster (US$24), a variety of chicken (US$14), and fish (US$21), pork chops (US$15), lamb chops (US$17), and butterfly shrimp (US$30).

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Annotto Bay Hospital, the largest and best-equipped medical facility in St. Mary.

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15. ATM

ATM withdrawals are usually the most convenient way to get cash, but foreign charges and poor exchange rates are drawbacks. Depending on the amount you are changing, a few lost dollars in fees and rates can be worth the convenience. All the major banks will cash travelers checks, but lines are typically long, slow-moving, and overwhelmingly frustrating.

Kingston is home to two daily newspapers, the Jamaica Gleaner (www.jamaica-gleaner.com) and the Jamaica Observer (www.jamaicaobserver.com), and a weekly, the Sunday Herald (www.sunheraldja,com), all of which a

17. Accompong

Home of the Leeward or Trelawny Maroons, Accompong (derived from Achumpun, or Acheumpun, from the Twi language of Ghana) was named after a brother of the famous leader Cudjoe (Kojo) who signed a peace treaty with Great Britain that granted his people autonomy from the crown on March 1, 1738.

Jamaica's Maroons date back to the Spanish settlement of the island, when it came to be accepted that a fraction of the blacks brought from Africa as slaves would not succumb to live in perpetual subordination and would instead resist perpetually until granted their freedom.

A small hamlet at the edge of Cockpit Country, Albert Town is the center of Trelawny's yam-growing region, which celebrates the crop each year with the Trelawny Yam Festival. Albert Town is the base for the South Trelawny Environmental Agency (STEA) (tel.

ARRIVING BY AIR

Regular airlines from the United States and Canada into Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport include Air Jamaica, Spirit Airlines, JetBlue Airways, Air Canada, American, Delta, and US Airways.

Virgin Atlantic and British Airways offer service from London to Montego Bay and Kingston.