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interCaribbean Airways began offering regular service between Kingston and Montego Bay in early 2014. The airline is based out of Turks & Caicos operating turbo prop planes between Providenciales, Dominican Republic and Jamaica. Charters are also offered.

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Greenwood Great House (9 a.m.-5 p.m daily, US$14) is the best example of a great house kept alive by the owners, Bob and Ann Betton, who live on property and manage the low-key tour operation.

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Altamont West (US$90 d) is the latest boutique hotel to crop up along the Hip Strip in Montego Bay. The Altamont West marks the first foray into Western Jamaica for the Jarrett family, which has run the Altamont Court hotel in Kingston for years.

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Richmond Hill (US$70/115 low/high season) is located at the highest point in the vicinity of downtown Mobay, with what is easily the best view in town from a large terraced swimming pool area and open-air dining room.

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Half Moon Resort (US$250\400 low season, US$1250\1,800 high season) is one of the most upscale resorts in Jamaica, comprising an assortment of rooms, cottages, and villas. Most of the cottages and all the villas have private pools. Set on a 400-acre estate, the resort has 33 staffed villas with 3\7 bedrooms, 152 suites, and 46 rooms.

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Rose Hall Resort & Spa (starting at US$149\199 d low season, US$169\219 d high season for room only, US$289\339 d low season, US$309\359 all-inclusive high season), a Hilton Resort, is a 489-room, seven-floor property built in 1974. The hotel underwent a US$40 million renovation in 2008 after being bought by Hilton and boasts a sleek South Beach design.

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Trelawny's capital, Falmouth, is today a run-down shadow of its short-lived former Georgian prime. Nevertheless, noble and much-appreciated efforts are under way to dust off years of neglect and shine favor on the town's glorious past by restoring its architectural gems.

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Aunt Gloria's (Rock district, 6 a.m.\8:30 p.m Mon.\Sat., US$3\4.50) serves brown stew fish, fried chicken, curry goat, and brown stew pork. Gloria opens her jerk center on Fridays and sometimes on Saturdays for the best jerk pork and chicken in town. Breakfast items include ackee and saltfish, kidney, dumpling, yam, and banana.

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Silver Sands is a gated community of 44 rental cottages and villas that range considerably in their level of price and comfort, from rustic to opulent. Even at the higher end of the price range, Silver Sands villas are among the best value for your money to be found in Jamaica, on what is considered by many the island's finest beach.

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The Last Resort (Ivor Conolley tel. 876/931-6070, cell tel. 876/700-7128) is the most remote accommodation option in Cockpit Country. It's the headquarters for Jamaica Caves Organization, led by chairman Stefan Stewart. The facilities were recently renovated but remain rustic with 20 bunk beds (US$15 per person) and a common bath.

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