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Prim-Rose Inn is a real shoestring joint run by Gasnel Hylton. It has five basic rooms featuring fans, hot water, and hammocks on a porch. The inn is set back on the bush side of West End Road. The driveway is marked by a sign for Haciender Inn; Prim-Rose is about 100 meters from the main road on the left.

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3 Dives Jerk Centre offers a quarter chicken with bread (US$3.50) or with rice and peas and vegetables (US$4.50), half chicken with rice and peas and veggies (US$8), steamed or curried shrimp (US$17), and grilled lobster (US$34). This is the place to get jerk on the West End.

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Pushcart Restaurant and Rum Bar (3\10 p.m daily, US$9\16) serves entrèes including peppered shrimp, homemade jerk sausage, curry goat, and oxtail. Opened in early 2009, Pushcart brings a Jamaican street food experience to one of the West End's most exclusive accommodations enclaves.

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Ras Rody (across from Tensing Pen, 10 a.m.\6 p.m) is an Ital food shop that specializes in soups, normally red pea soup (US$8\10) and other vegetarian specialties of the day.

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Negril's Aerodrome can accommodate small private aircraft and charters. The only operator in Jamaica currently offering charter flights to Negril is interCaribbean Airways which will take passengers in from Kingston and Montego Bay.

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Border Jerk (11 a.m.\10 p.m daily, US$5\12), located in Mackfield, Westmoreland at the Hanover border along the B8 heading toward Montego Bay from Ferris Cross, is a notable jerk pit owned by Clive McFarlane (cell tel. 876/542-1852), who opened the business in 2004. It serves jerk chicken, pork, festival, and breadfruit. There's also a bar on-site.

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7. ATM

ATM withdrawals are usually the most convenient way to get cash, but foreign charges and poor exchange rates are drawbacks. Depending on the amount you are changing, a few lost dollars in fees and rates can be worth the convenience. All the major banks will cash travelers checks, but lines are typically long, slow-moving, and overwhelmingly frustrating.

Kingston is home to two daily newspapers, the Jamaica Gleaner (www.jamaica-gleaner.com) and the Jamaica Observer (www.jamaicaobserver.com), and a weekly, the Sunday Herald (www.sunheraldja,com), all of which a

ARRIVING BY AIR

Regular airlines from the United States and Canada into Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport include Air Jamaica, Spirit Airlines, JetBlue Airways, Air Canada, American, Delta, and US Airways.

Virgin Atlantic and British Airways offer service from London to Montego Bay and Kingston.

The weekends around Emancipation Day (August 1, 1838) and Independence Day (August 6, 1962) are filled with parties in Negril as Absolute Temptation Isle (www.atiweekend.com) and competing event Appleton Treasure Island (contact Appleton's Kingston office, tel.