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The Lower Black River Morass is one of Jamaica's largest wetlands, with 142 square kilometers of mangrove and swamp providing a rich habitat for a variety of animal and plantlife. Turtles and crocodiles are still abundant, while manatees, once relatively common around the mouth of the river, are gone today.

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Waterloo Guest House (44 High St., tel. 876/965-2278, US$29\47) is really the only option in town. Once the home of English racehorse breeder John Leyden, who made the Waterloo the first building to have electricity in 1893, the amenities seem to have changed little since then. Basic rooms have ceiling fans, double beds or two single beds, and private bath.

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Y.S. Falls (9:30 a.m.-3:30 p.m Tues.-Sun., US$17 adults, US$8.50 children 3-15 years) on the Y.S. Estate is by far the best conceived and organized waterfalls destination in Jamaica. It's been operated by Simon Browne since 1991. The Y.S. River changes with weather--crystal clear blue normally, and swelling after rain in the mountains to make the perfect venue for tubing (US$6).

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One of the most beautiful four-kilometer stretches of road in Jamaica, running from Middle Quarters to West Lacovia, Bamboo Avenue is also known as Holland Bamboo.

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Appleton Estate offer one of the most popular tours (9 a.m.-3 p.m Mon.\Sat., US$22 admission includes a miniature bottle of rum) on the South Coast, well within reach for those staying anywhere from Montego Bay, to Negril and Treasure Beach.

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Andy Nembhard rents Trek, Raleigh, and Cannondale mountain bikes (US$25 per day), operates two-hour sea kayak tours (US$60 per person), and rents single-person kayaks (US$45 per day). Andy also runs 2\3-hour hiking and biking tours (US$60 per person) to Great Bay, Fort Charles, and Lover's Leap.

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Ashanti Village is a great budget option with a one-bedroom (US$45) and a two-bedroom (US$65) seaview cottage and four additional rooms (US$35) in the main house. The rooms come with a private bath, small fridge, fan, and electric kettles, with screens on the windows. The cottages have equipped kitchens and verandas with sea views.

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Hope House, also managed by Jake's and a bit farther to the east, is a new two-story house exquisitely laid out and appointed with aged wood detailing, sleek interiors, and a veranda and plunge pool to die for.

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Blue Marlin is a four-bedroom beachfront villa on Great Pedro Bay, the eastern most of a string of coves together known as Treasure Beach. Blue Marlin sits adjacent to Coquina, a three-bedroom villa that can be rented together for larger groups.

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Jack Sprat (adjacent to Jake's, tel. 876/965-3583, 10 a.m.\10 p.m) is a favorite for fried fish, conch soup, pizza, and Devon House ice cream.

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