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The Pelican (7 a.m.-11 p.m daily, US$10-40) serves a mix of local and international dishes at international prices. Jamaican favorites like stewed peas (US$8), curry goat (US$12), steamed or brown stew fish (US$11), and lobster (US$40) complement international staples like cordon bleu (US$17) and hamburgers (US$9).

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Scotchie's (11 a.m.\11 p.m daily, US$4\11) is easily the best jerk in Jamaica, serving pork, chicken, and steamed fish. Sides include breadfruit, festival, and yam. Scotchie's was forced to move back from the expanded highway and took the opportunity to redesign the dining area, adding a nice bar in the open-air courtyard.

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The HouseBoat Grill (6-11 p.m Tues.-Sun., bar open from 4:30 p.m, happy hour 5:30-7 p.m, US$12-26) on Montego Bay's Marine Park is an unparalleled setting for a romantic dinner, and the food is excellent. Dishes include chicken, fish, and lobster. The HouseBoat Grill is owned by Scott Stanley. Reservations are recommended.

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Day-O Plantation (US$16-35) was formerly part of the Fairfield Estate, which at one time encompassed much of Mobay. It is perhaps the most laid-back and classy place to enjoy a delicious dinner. Entrèes range from typical chicken dishes to lobster. A beer costs US$3\5.

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Sugar Mill Restaurant (6:00 p.m.-10:00 p.m. daily) located across the highway from Half Moon Shopping Village, is one of the area's high-end establishments with upscale decor and atmosphere. The restaurant specializes in Caribbean fusion cuisine with openers like pumpkin or conch soup (US$7.50), spring rolls, smoked marlin or conch in fritters, salad, or jerked (US$13-15).

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Donald Sangster International Airport is the primary point of entry for most tourists visiting Jamaica. The airport is located by Flankers district a few minutes east of the Hip Strip and about 10 minutes from Downtown or from Rose Hall.

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Lark Cruises by Barrett Adventures operates two cruises out of Port Antonio, a round-trip to Cuba, and a Pirates of the Caribbean cruise to Port Royal (US$1,000 per person per week for 2-6 persons, US$900 for 7-8 persons). Other destinations are also possible to arrange.

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As Jamaica's primary gateway, Montego Bay is likely to be a part of any Jamaican itinerary, even if it's just in passing. For those stepping off a cruise ship for a matter of hours, on the other hand, it may be the only part of Jamaica that fits in the itinerary. Here are some suggestions for how to spend one day in Jamaica's second city, as it's often referred to locally:

Soul in the Sun - is a new event to grace Jamaica's annual music calendar pulling local and international talent.

Your best bet for kiteboarding, windsurfing, paddle boarding and scuba in Montego Bay is with Water Network Jamaiaca, managed by Judith Ferger with instructors Brian Schurton and Andrew Davis. Based at Sea Castles just past Rose Hall and the Montego Bay Convention Centre heading east. Introductory lessons start at US$180 for three hours, all-day rentals at US$290.

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