Negril and the West

Food

Hanover and Westmoreland are Jamaica's westernmost parishes. Hanover wraps around from Montego Bay on its northeastern border to where Negril's large hotel strip overflows from Westmoreland at its western reaches. It's a picturesque parish with small mountains tapering down to the coast with rivers, lush valleys, and deep, navigable coves. Caves dot the landscape of some of Jamaica's most biologically diverse ecosystems, in the shadow of the Dolphin Head mountain range.

Negril, which straddles the Hanover\Westmoreland border, has become a mass-market destination popular among Jamaicans and foreign visitors alike. The Kingstonian phenomenon of a weekend escape to "country" often implies a trip west to kick back and adopt the beach life, which necessarily involves taking in spectacular sunsets and the enviable slow pace evoked in Tyrone Taylor's 1983 hit, "Cottage in Negril." A constant stream of new visitors also gives hustlers a chance to do their thing, and Negril has gained a reputation as a mecca for sinful indulgence as a result.

While Negril is the region's most well-known draw, there are several low-key communities farther east that are just as easily accessible from Montego Bay's international airport and worthy coastal destinations in themselves, namely Little Bay, Bluefields, Belmont, and Whitehouse. The Westmoreland interior consists of vast alluvial plains on either side of Cabarita River, still some of Jamaica's most productive sugarcane territory. The plains extend from the base of the Orange Hill, just east of Negril, to where the Roaring River rises out of the earth from its underground source in the hills above Blue Hole Garden.

Hanover exists as a parish since it was portioned off from Westmoreland in 1723 and given the name of English monarch George I of the House of Hanover. The Spanish first settled the area when New Seville was abandoned in 1534 and the capital moved to Spanish Town. Lucea became prosperous, with a busier port than Montego Bay in its heyday, which served 16 large sugar estates in the area. Remnants of many estate great houses dot the landscape to the east and west of Lucea, their abandoned ruins showing evidence of having been torched and destroyed during slave riots. Kennilworth, Barbican, and Tryall are a few of the old estates that have visible ruins; although they have been declared national heritage sites, they are not maintained.

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Kenny's Italian Cafe

The setup at Kenny’s Italian Café (7am-2am daily) is inviting, with bamboo thatch ceilings, hanging lanterns, and padded stools with seating for up to 200. A DJ spins mostly house music nightly. Complimentary appetizers are offered 4pm- 7pm daily. The menu is Kenny’s take on Italian, absorbed from his wife and trips to the motherland, with salads, pasta dishes, sea- food, and pizza. Entrées range from spaghetti with olive oil (US$9) to a mixed seafood platter ($55) with whole lobster, fish fillets, calamari, and shrimp.

 

In: Italian

Nikki's Taco

The only place in Negril to get Mexican- inspired dishes, Nikki’s Taco (across Norman Manley Blvd. from Bar-B-Barn, (11am-9pm daily, US$4-10) has tacos, burritos, and quesadillas as well as chips and salsa with guacamole.

In: Food

Sunrise Club

A wide variety of welcome options to start the day off right are at Sunrise Club (breakfast 8am-noon daily, US$10-35), including omelets or eggs and bacon, Jamaican breakfast (ackee and saltfish, callaloo, and fried dump- ling), crepes, pancakes, french toast, fresh- squeezed orange juice, and proper Italian coffee made in a quality espresso machine.

In: Food

Patsy's Coffeeshop

Patsy’s Coffeeshop (US$1.50-US$18, 8am-10pm Mon.\Fri. 9am-10pm Sat.\Sun) serves coffee, breakfast, lunch, cocktails, and desserts and uses the famous Blue Mountain coffee bean, the Peaberry coffee bean, which is naturally sweeter and lower in caffeine than its counterparts. It's located on the side of One Love Drive on West End Road. Some of its specialties include tasty homemade waffle cones, shakes and ganja ice-cream. 

In: Cafés & Pastry Shops

Vinne's Colie Shop Bar N Grill

Vinne's Colie Shop Bar N Grill (US$6-US$30, 10am-10pm daily, Norman Manley Blvd, in front of Chance Restaurant) serves seafood dishes like grilled lobster, garlic conch and steamed fish along with Jamaican dishes for lunch and dinner with drinks. Vinne's also offers catering services, waiter service, dine out options, and group reservations.

In: Jamaican

Little Negril Seafood

Little Negril Seafood (US$7-US$50, 10am-10pm daily) serves dishes in a cozy thatch covered, rustic, beach-front restaurant. The location is shared with Pimentoz Jerk restaurant, along with The Gallery Restaurant, Ital Island Restaurant and Beach House Sweet Eats(Devon House I-Scream) and within the Island Lux Beach Park. This is an ideal location to visit; varieties of food to try from different restaurants, fun activities to try at the Beach Park before and after eating, and great shopping experiences are just a few reasons.

In: Seafood

Pimentoz Jerk

Pimentoz Jerk (from JMD $200, 10am-11pm daily) is truly a great addition to the Island Lux Beach Park alongside Little Negril Seafood Restaurant. Its mantra, "Authentic Jamaican Jerk", speaks volumes about their pride in the quality of their unique jerked dishes which range from the familiar Jerk Chicken to Barbeque Jerk wings. It is a wheelchair accessible Jamaican beach bar that offers takeout, outdoor seating, wait staff and alcoholic beverages to customers.

In: Jerk

Zest Restaurant

Zest Restaurant (7am-10pm daily), located at The Cliff, is a welcome addition to Negril's food scene, showcasing the creative hand of internationally acclaimed executive chef Cindy Hutson. Try singular starters like the shrimp ceviche with fried plantain and bean dip or mains like sauteed snapper with a side of cashew and jackfruit spiced rice. The dining area is split between a chic interior and clifftop al fresco, with crashing waves as a soundtrack. Reservations are required for guests not staying on property.

In: Seafood, Meat

Hammond's Pastry Place

Hammond's Pastry Place (18 Great George St., 8 a.m.\6:30 p.m Mon.\Fri., closing at 8:30 p.m on Saturday) serves patties, cakes, and deli sandwiches.

In: Food, Cafés & Pastry Shops

Charis Restaurant

Charis Restaurant (just before the entrance to Round Hill heading west, opens Mon-Sat 9 a.m.\6 p.m, US$5\10) serves jerk chicken and pork, curry chicken and goat, a variety of pasta dishes including alfredo sauce, shrimp and chicken, or Rasta pasta with ackee, in season. Steamed, grilled, or fried fish is done to order. The restaurant reopened in January 2009 under the new ownership of two local couples, Geoffrey and Jackry Harris, and Marcine and Oniel Brown.

In: Food, Jamaican