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Andrea's Seaside Restaurant and Steakhouse (US$20-50) is an open-air restaurant at Marblue, where Andrea's award-winning chef husband, Axel Wichterich, creates dishes of local and international inspiration.

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Atlantis Seafood (Main Rd. just before reaching Junction, next to Lunie's Hot Spot, which is plastered with Heineken posters) serves the best seafood in Junction, with fish, lobster, conch, and shrimp (US$7\1700/pound) on the menu.

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Bamboo Garden Restaurant (35 Ward Ave., tel. 876/962-4515, noon\10 p.m Mon.\Sat., 1\10 p.m Sun., US$7\30) serves Chinese food ranging from sweet and sour chicken to butterfly shrimp to lobster with butter and cola. The restaurant is located upstairs from Cash & Carry Supermarket.

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Guts River is located about five kilometers west of the Canoe Valley Protected Area, or 16 km east along the coast into Manchester from Alligator Pond, the Guts River creates a small pool as it emerges from the rocks with cool, crystal-clear waters said to have medicinal qualities. The deserted beach nearby is great for a stroll.

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15. ATM

ATM withdrawals are usually the most convenient way to get cash, but foreign charges and poor exchange rates are drawbacks. Depending on the amount you are changing, a few lost dollars in fees and rates can be worth the convenience. All the major banks will cash travelers checks, but lines are typically long, slow-moving, and overwhelmingly frustrating.

Kingston is home to two daily newspapers, the Jamaica Gleaner (www.jamaica-gleaner.com) and the Jamaica Observer (www.jamaicaobserver.com), and a weekly, the Sunday Herald (www.sunheraldja,com), all of which a

17. Alley

Alley was the capital of the former parish of Vere and remains the sugarcane-producing heartland of Clarendon. The area was once dominated by the Moneymusk Estate and is still largely covered in cane fields that feed the factory, now located closer to Lionel Town.

One of the busiest fishing villages on the South Coast, Alligator Pond has as its central attraction the seafood restaurant Little Ochie, and the nearby Manatee Hole.

ARRIVING BY AIR

Regular airlines from the United States and Canada into Kingston's Norman Manley International Airport include Air Jamaica, Spirit Airlines, JetBlue Airways, Air Canada, American, Delta, and US Airways.

Virgin Atlantic and British Airways offer service from London to Montego Bay and Kingston.

Manchester is Jamaica's sixth-largest parish, much of its land located at relatively high altitudes with three mountain ranges: the May Day Mountains, the Don Figuerero Mountains, and the Carpenters Mountains, where the highest peak in the parish stands at 844 meters.