The road west of Port Antonio runs along the coast, cutting inland occasionally through several small towns including St. Margaret’s Bay, Hope Bay, and Buff Bay before reaching the border with St. Mary just east of Annotto Bay. The region is characteristically lush with fruit vendors and roadside shops intermittently along the road.
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The quiet seaside village of St. Margaret’s Bay is notable principally as the end point for the rafts coming down the Rio Grande. There are a few accommodation options and a notable craft shop, Jah Tobs Crafts (tel. 876/913-3242) making Rasta-style knits and other craft items including tams, belts, swimsuits, bags, chains, calabash purses, and much more.
Rio Vista Resort Villas, situated on a hill overlooking the eastern banks of the Rio Grande, has two-bedroom cottages, a one-bedroom honeymoon cottage with a spectacular view up the Rio Grande (US$155), and four single rooms between the main house and two suites.
Paradise Inn (tel. 876/993-5169, paradiseinn295@hotmail.com, US$3560) is a dive located along the main road (A4) with nine rooms lacking charm, each with one or two double beds. Rooms have cable TV, ceiling fans, and hot water come standard. Four rooms have kitchenettes.
Rafter’s Rest (tel. 876/993-5778) is where the bamboo rafts pull in at the end of the 2.5-hour journey down the Rio Grande. There is a restaurant serving Jamaican staples (US$515) and a bar overlooking the river. The river is fit for swimming, and there is a beach where the river meets the sea.
Somerset Falls (about 3 km east of Hope Bay, tel. 876/913-0046, info@somersetfallsjamaica.com, www.somersetfallsjamaica.com, 9 a.m.5 p.m daily, US$12 adults, US$6 children, free under age 9) is a great place to stop for a dip.
Likkle Porti, located across the street by the mouth of the Danny River, is owned by the same management as Somerset, with a seafood grill serving roast, steamed, and fried fish, accompanied by bammy and festival in the style of Little Ochie, a South Coast favorite. There’s bathing access to the river and sea, with rafting and boat rides offered.
Pauline Petinaud, a.k.a. "Sista P" (cell tel. 876/426-1957), recently moved her African-Jamaican crafts shop and guest house from Port Antonio to Hope Bay, where she rents two basic rooms with common kitchen and bath for budget-minded travelers (US$30).
J&J Natural Food Restaurant (contact Juba, cell tel. 876/851-8927) in the heart of Hope Bay on the seaside facing the road, serves Jamaican staples.
I-tal Village (cell tel. 876/898-5323, info@italvillage.com, www.italvillage.com, US$30/40 low/high season) is a mellow, simplistic, Rasta-inspired living retreat about three kilometers off the main road near Orange Bay.
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