Sweet and Juicy (Swanzey district at the end of Bustamante Highway, contact Jamie Levy tel. 876/359-6158, 7 a.m.\9 p.m daily, US$3\4.50) serves staples like fried and curried chicken, and curry goat.

Daily Delicious Restaurant & Sports Bar (28 Main St., next door to Island Grill, a Jamaican fast-food joint, tel. 876/986-9842, 8 a.m.\9:30 p.m Mon.\Sat., weekends till 11 p.m, US$2.50\6) serves cow foot, cow head, oxtail, fish, pork, curry goat, and baked, stew, curry, and fried chicken.

Versalles Hotel (42 Longbridge Ave., tel. 876/986-2775) is reached by taking the second left from Mineral Lights Roundabouts. Suites with air-conditioning and hot water, cable TV, and king-size bed or two double beds run US$56.

Fyah Side Jerk (Toll Gate, 10 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Sat., 10 a.m.-11 p.m Sun.) serves jerk roadside just past the Bridge Palm Hotel. It's a buzzing local hangout and has grown its clientelle steadily with consistent food and ambiance that mixes loud dancehall, good food, bar and gaming machines.