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Baywatch Bar & Restaurant (Old Folly, across from bauxite terminal, tel. 876/578-7706, noon–11 p.m. Mon.–Sat., US$3–4.50) serves typical Jamaican fare in a local atmosphere overlooking the bay.

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Hot & Spicy Tavern is a cook shop run by Morton "Beaks" Willis (tel. 876/853-0103) located inside the ruins of the old warehouse at Quadrant Wharf. Beaks also runs the bar on the property.

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Coconut Lagoon Bar and Restaurant (Queen's Highway, contact Alvin Spencer, tel. 876/899-1245, 8 a.m.–9:30 p.m. daily), located on the sea side of the road as you round a bend approaching Rio Bueno from Discovery Bay, opposite derelict Bay Vista resort, is a popular pit stop serving typical Jamaican fare and fish dishes (US$5–12).

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264. Port Maria

One of the most picturesque towns in Jamaica, Port Maria has a large protected harbor with the small Cabarita Island, also known as Treasure Island, in the center. Originally inhabited by the Tainos and later by the Spanish, the island was vulnerable to pirate attacks and warring colonial powers and fell into the hands of the pirate Henry Morgan until he lost it in a gamble.

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St. Mary Craft Market (Port Maria Civic Center, by appointment cell tel. 876/373-7575) is one of the island's most eclectic, featuring work exclusively from artists residing in the parish. If you're planning a stop to check out the old Court House and Anglican Church, call in advance to arrange to see the crafts.

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Pagee Beach is where Port Maria's anglers keep their boats and bring in their catch. Outings to Cabarita Island, a great place to explore in true Robinson Crusoe fashion, can be arranged from here by negotiating with the fishermen (US$10 per person is a reasonable round-trip fare). Pagee is not an ideal place for swimming.

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Fort Haldane, or sparse and scattered remains of it, are located on a road that cuts across the point jutting into the sea, forming the western flank of Port Maria's harbor. The road runs between the Anglican Church and the middle of the bend on the other side of the hill on Little Bay.

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The old courthouse and police station (across from the Anglican church on east side of town), originally built in 1821 is one of the nicest examples of Georgian architecture in Port Maria after its recent restoration. Much of the original building was destroyed by fire in 1988 and then marked for restoration by the Urban Development Commission in 2000.

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St. Mary Parish Church was built in 1861 and has an adjoining cemetery with an epitaph dedicated to the Jamaicans who fought in World War I. The Tacky Memorial is also located in the church cemetery.

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Almond Tree Club Restaurant open (9 a.m.–11 p.m. daily, US$2–6) is the best bet in Port Maria, serving typical Jamaican dishes like curry goat, fried chicken, oxtail, stew peas, and stew pork. Other dishes like chicken chop suey and shrimp fried rice are cooked to order. This Almond Tree claims to be the original, predating the one in Ocho Rios.

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