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861. Natania's

Natania's (tel. 876/963-5349, cell tel. 876/883-3009, nataniasjamaica@yahoo.com, www.nataniasjamaica.com, US$80\100) is run B&B-style with eight double-occupancy rooms, some facing inland, the others out to sea. Rooms have either two single beds or one king-size.

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Culloden by the Sea is a large subdivision development just west of Whitehouse. Several repatriated Jamaicans have built houses there to retire to and a few of them rent as nice, low-key guesthouses. Sierra-la-Mar Villa (Lot #150, Culloden-by-the-Sea, contact Garth Lee at tel. 876/963-5922, cell tel.

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863. FantaSea

FantaSea (Culloden by the Sea, contact manager Marcia Laird, cell tel. 876/383-5347, or owner Rudy Miller, U.S. tel.

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Ocean Air Guest House (84 South Sea Park Drive, contact owner/manager Marcia Palmer, tel. 876/389-9155, oceanairguesthouse@yahoo.com, US$43\71) has eight standard rooms and a suite with four queen-size beds. Rooms have queen-size beds, air-conditioning, and local TV.

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South Sea View Guest House (tel. 876/963-5172, run by Norman Forrester, cell tel. 876/404-6040, southseaview@yahoo.com, www.southseaviewjamaica.com, US$75\85) is a seaside guest house with king-size beds, air-conditioning, TV, and private bath.

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Sandals Whitehouse (U.S. tel. 800/726-3257, starting at US$790) took about 15 years to complete at a total cost of around US$110 million--among the most expensive hotels ever built and nearly double the initial budget estimates.

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Culloden Cove (US$3,300-4,200/week low season for 2-5 bedrooms, US$3,950-5,100 high season), located at the former home of the Culloden Cafè, received a complete refurbishment under new ownership in 2008, leaving the property in the immaculate condition of a top-notch villa. The property sleeps up to 10, six in the villa and four in a separate cottage.

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Box Video Rental and Cook Shop (Whitehouse Square, cell tel. 876/363-0091, 9 a.m.\3 p.m daily, rent videos until 8 p.m; food US$2\4) is a great food joint run out of a shipping container by enterprising Raquel "Keisha" Smith. Chicken and pork dishes come in three sizes. Fish is also cooked when it's available.

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Ruby's 24/7 (Whitehouse Square, tel. 876/453-0003) serves typical Jamaican dishes around the clock, in a box to go or to stay.

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870. Becky's

Becky's (8:30 a.m.\11 p.m Mon.\Sat., US$3\6), located about 100 meters farther west, serves typical Jamaican dishes like oxtail, fish, pork, curry goat, and fried chicken, as well as burgers and fries.

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