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Sandals Carlyle Montego Bay (starting at US$334 d all-inclusive), formerly Sandals Inn, is a 52-room property that has been undergoing a transformation over the past few years as its renovations move forward little by little.

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Sandals Montego Bay (US$970\4,050) was the first Sandals property and remains the group's flagship resort. Located near the end of the runway, guests are encouraged to wave to the planes as they fly overhead.

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Sandals Royal Caribbean (starting at US$473 d with a minimum three-night stay) is the most opulent Sandals hotel in Montego Bay, with 197 rooms and suites well deserving of the chain's "Luxury Included" motto. The suites are over-the-top with wood paneling, large flat-panel TVs, and tiled baths with standing showers and tubs.

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Riu Montego Bay (tel. 876/940-8010, www.riu.com, US$115/160) is a 680-room all-inclusive resort with standard double and suite rooms and an immense swimming pool. Suites have hydro-massage tubs and lounge areas. All rooms have a mini-bar, satellite TV, air-conditioning, balconies, and en suite baths.

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Rose Hall Resort & Spa (starting at US$149\199 d low season, US$169\219 d high season for room only, US$289\339 d low season, US$309\359 all-inclusive high season), a Hilton Resort, is a 489-room, seven-floor property built in 1974. The hotel underwent a US$40 million renovation in 2008 after being bought by Hilton and boasts a sleek South Beach design.

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966. Iberostar

Iberostar Grand Rose Hall (starting at US$336/472 per person low/high season) has 295 rooms, all with ample living areas, day beds, private balconies featuring a swinging chair for two and a couch. In the plush bathrooms, whirlpool tubs and separate rainwater showers delight. Mini-bars are stocked daily with premium beverages.

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Hammerstein Highland House (US$7,500/9,500 weekly, low/high season, four-night minimum) is a six-bedroom villa on a lush 17-acre estate overlooking Montego Bay in the community of Content that once belonged to American musical theater director Oscar Hammerstein II, who wrote the score to The Sound of Music while at the property.

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Spyglass Hill (contact Paul Taylor tel. 876/601-6456, or cell tel.

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969. SunVillas

SunVillas (contact Alan Marlor, SunVillas, U.S. tel. 888/625-6007, alan@sunvillas.com, www.sunvillas.com) rents a nice assortment of villas across Jamaica, varying considerably in price while all having much more than the basic amenities.

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Original Madourie Fast Food (7 a.m.-midnight Mon.-Sat., US$3-5) has been a local favorite for staple Jamaican fare since it was founded in 1976. Specialties include fry chicken, curry goat, oxtail, and brown stew fish. Madourie's is always packed with a clientele that's almost exclusively Jamaican, a testimony to the good food that's reasonably priced.

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