Some of the most gorgeous and unexplored countryside in Jamaica lies in the interior of Trelawny, where Cockpit Country, with its myriad caves, sinkholes, and springs, stretches from the St. James border in the west to St. Ann at the heart of the island. Hiking and exploring in this region is unparalleled, but adequate supplies and a good guide are essential.

David Pinto's Ceramic Studio (8 a.m.-4 p.m Mon.-Fri. or by appointment) is run by a Jamaican-born potter who studied ceramics during high school in the United Kingdom and later at Rhode Island School of Design before practicing in New York City.

The Last Resort (Ivor Conolley tel. 876/931-6070, cell tel. 876/700-7128) is the most remote accommodation option in Cockpit Country. It's the headquarters for Jamaica Caves Organization, led by chairman Stefan Stewart. The facilities were recently renovated but remain rustic with 20 bunk beds (US$15 per person) and a common bath.

To get to Windsor, head inland from Falmouth to Martha Brae, crossing the bridge to the east and turning right to follow the valley south into the hills. On the way, the road passes through the small farming communities of Perth Town and Reserve. Once the road leaves the riverbanks, it heads to Sherwood Content, Coxheath, and finally Windsor.