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Route taxis run up and down the coast from the Beach to the West End, generally using the plaza across from Burger King by the roundabout as a connection point. Some negotiating will generally be required, as the route taxis always try to get a higher fare from tourists, especially at night when everyone is charged extra.

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792. Hanover

Hanover is Jamaica's third-smallest parish after Kingston and St. Andrew, with roughly 451 square kilometers of land. It has six major rivers, two of which flow into Lucea Harbour. The Great River, along the border with St. James, has Jamaica's most heart-thumping navigable rapids in the hills of the interior, as well as serene bamboo rafting where it lazily meets the sea.

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Just west of Montego Bay, the Great River marks the border of St. James and Hanover, which represents Jamaica's high-end tourism. Before arriving at Round Hill, one of Jamaica's most exclusive club hotels, Tamarind Hill and its surrounding coastline are strewn with luxurious villas, most of which fetch upwards of US$10,000 per week during the high season.

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Round Hill Hotel and Villas (suites US$419-843 nightly low season, US$631-1,261 high season), just over the Great River, is an exclusive hotel and club on meticulously manicured grounds. The hotel's main Pineapple Suites, featuring plush lounge furniture, were designed by Ralph Lauren and boast an atmosphere of stately, oceanfront elegance.

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In the Pineapple Suites, a series of hinged louvered windows open to overlook an infinity pool and the sea beyond, perfectly aligned for dreamy sunsets. The bathrooms feature rainwater showerheads above glass enclosures and large bathtubs.

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Tryall Club (tel. 876/956-5660, U.S. tel.

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Tryall Villas rent for US$630\785 low season, US$1,185/1,570 high, for superior or deluxe category, respectively. They come fully staffed with excellent cooks who prepare delectable Jamaican favorites and are adept at international cuisine. Most suites and villas have a one-week minimum stay during the high season, reduced to three or four days during the low season.

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Charis Restaurant (just before the entrance to Round Hill heading west, opens Mon-Sat 9 a.m.\6 p.m, US$5\10) serves jerk chicken and pork, curry chicken and goat, a variety of pasta dishes including alfredo sauce, shrimp and chicken, or Rasta pasta with ackee, in season. Steamed, grilled, or fried fish is done to order.

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799. Sea Shells

Sea Shells (9 a.m.\9 p.m daily, US$7\21), just west of Hopewell, is run by Lorna Williams and serves chicken, pork, fish, and lobster dishes. The restaurant has a rootsy vibe, with the dining area right next to the water and a bar by the roadside.

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Dervy's Lobster Trap (open by reservation daily, US$18\30), owned by the charismatic Dervent Wright, and operated by the whole family, including his wife Gem, daughter Tiffany, and son, Junior. Dervy's has some of the island's best lobster, plus a great view of Round Hill from its vantage point on the waterfront.

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