Seaside, opposite the turnoff to St. Ann’s Bay, the Roxborough Restaurant Bar & Grill (10am- 10pm daily) specializes in reasonably priced seafood like brown stewed conch, steamed fish, coconut crusted, or grilled lobster (US$16-25) served with sides of festival, rice- and-peas, fries, bammy, or creamed potatoes.

The most authentic French restaurant in Jamaica is L’Escargot (tel. 876/973-5589) however out of place it might feel in the center of Runaway Bay. The dimly lit dining room has a baby grand piano gracing the entrance. Start with the sig- nature escargot sautéed in garlic butter, herbs, and white wine, smoked marlin topped with mousse (US$12) or pâté de foie gras (US$9).

The six studios (US$95) and 14 one-bedroom apartments (US$116) at Piper’s Cove have air- conditioning, cable TV, Wi-Fi, and utilitarian kitchenettes. The dated furnishings can be overlooked given the affordability. Some apartments have sea views. A restaurant and bar on the property serves breakfast, lunch, and dinner.

An eight-unit guesthouse overlooking the sea in Oracabessa, Ocean Edge Villa (US$65 d) has self-contained units with queen beds, private balconies facing the sea, and kitchenettes. Rooms are clean and a great value for the money.