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Mountain River Cave (caretaker Monica Wright, tel. 876/705-2790), with its Taino wall paintings first uncovered in 1897, is located 21 kilometers due northwest from the roundabout at the beginning of St. John’s Road on the western edge of Spanish Town. After leaving an Uptown suburb area, St.

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Spanish Town Shopping Centre has a food court with several quick eating options. Jamanda’s Flava of Jamaica  7 a.m.–9 p.m. Mon.–Thurs., 7 a.m.–10 p.m. Fri.–Sat., 2–9 p.m. Sun.) offers Jamaican staple dishes and sells Devon House ice cream.

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Irie Jerk Centre (21 Brunswick Ave., tel. 876/749-5375, 9 a.m.–midnight daily) serves fried and jerk chicken (US$2/ piece, a quarter chicken for US$4, whole US$15) and pork (US$9(/ lb.) and beer to wash it down (US$2). Irie also cooks curry goat, porridge, and soup.

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At St. Jago Shopping Centre, the small food court has some good options. La Cocina for Mom’s Cooking (Shop #31, tel. 876/943-9355) serves Spanish-inspired Jamaican fare like brown stew chicken and fish, fried fish and chicken, curry mutton, stew pork, stew peas, and chicken soup (US$2.50–3.50). Tastebuds Delight (Shop #32, tel.

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555. Cecil's

Cecil’s 10 a.m.–10 p.m. Mon.–Sat., US$3–11) is easily Spanish Town’s most-lauded restaurant. Cecil Reid was a chef at a number of other restaurants for years before opening his own place in 1983.

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St. Catherine Parish Library (9am–6pm Mon.–Fri., 10am–5pm Sat.), located across from Spanish Town Cathedral, offers free Internet access on a few computers.

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Spanish Town is served by Kingston’s JUTC with buses from Half Way Tree Transport Centre and the Downtown bus terminals departing every 10 minutes on the 21 and 22 series routes.

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Heading west out of Spanish Town along the bypass, take a left following well-marked signs at the second roundabout along Old Harbour Road, which leads southwestward through vast tracts of sugarcane fields toward the town of Old Harbour.

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Continuing on Old Harbour Road 18 kilometers southwest of Spanish Town, you arrive at the town of Old Harbour, a congested little backwater full of storefronts and food vendors next to the square. A clock tower dating from the 17th century is the town’s centerpiece.

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The first free village for ex-slaves was established at Sligoville, just north of Spanish Town, when Jamaica’s pro-abolition transition period governor Howe Peter Browne, known as the Marquis of Sligo, granted land to Baptist missionary James Phillippo.

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