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Duke's Mile Post 99 (Main St., contact Boris "Duke" Samuels, cell tel. 876/584-0210, 2 a.m.\midnight daily, US$10\20) sits next to the road on a little rise unmistakably plastered with green Heineken branding.

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The post office (35 High St., tel. 876/634-3769) is open 8 a.m.\5 p.m Monday\Friday. DHL is at 17 High Street (tel. 876/965-2651, 9 a.m.\5 p.m Mon.\Sat.).

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The Internet Shop (13 North St., tel. 876/965-2534, 10 a.m.\6 p.m, US$2.25/hour) has DSL Internet access. Surf D Net (12 High St., tel. 876/634-4535, 9:30 a.m.\6 p.m Mon.\Fri., 10 a.m.\6:30 p.m Sat.) also offers Internet access. The St.

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The Globe Store (17 High St., tel. 876/965-2161) sells souvenirs and computer parts.

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1305. Banking

Both NCB (13 High St., tel. 876/965-2207) and Scotiabank (6 High St., tel. 876/965-2251) have branches with ATMs.

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Black River is easily reached by route taxi from Sav-la-Mar in Westmoreland (US$3) or from Santa Cruz in St. Elizabeth (US$2). If you're driving, there's a dodgy but interesting road along the coast to Treasure Beach that's much shorter and not too much more potholed than the long way around.

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1307. Scott's Cove

One of the best road stops along the South Coast, Scott's Cove on the Westmoreland/St. Elizabeth border has several stands with friendly competition between vendors of fried escovitch fish, bammy, conch soup, shrimp, and lobster. Check Ras Collie-Bud for an excellent cup of conch soup or any of the vendors for escoveitch-style fried fish and bammy.

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1308. Newmarket

Straddling the Westmoreland\St. Elizabeth border and best accessed by turning inland along the road just east of Whitehouse and just west of the South Sea Park subdivision, Newmarket has the best weekly market in the area, generally held on Mondays. When the incline levels out, turn right to reach Newmarket, passing the striking Carmel Moravian church sitting on a hill.

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Middle Quarters is a favorite motorist stop, where women line the road selling "pepper swimps" (shrimp), and Howie's HQ (contact Howie Salmon, cell tel. 876/860-5733 or 876/860-5396, open 24/7) roadside restaurant serves up typical Jamaican dishes out of huge pots to motorists.

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Marcia Williams' Rasta-Colored Roadside Shop (tel. 876/363-7242, 10 a.m.\

7 p.m daily) is an excellent choice for fresh-out-the-pot swimps. Ms. Williams also serves beer at her shop and has a good fruit and vegetable stand out front.

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