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Captain Dennis Adventure, run by Dennis Abrahams (cell tel. 876/435-3779 or tel. 876/965-3084, dennisabrahams@yahoo.com), offers excursions and fishing trips to get to Black River Safari (US$120), Pelican Bar (US$75 for two), or to a white-sand beach called Gallon Beach in Malcolm Bay just past Black River.

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Andy Nembhard rents Trek, Raleigh, and Cannondale mountain bikes (US$25 per day), operates two-hour sea kayak tours (US$60 per person), and rents single-person kayaks (US$45 per day). Andy also runs 2\3-hour hiking and biking tours (US$60 per person) to Great Bay, Fort Charles, and Lover's Leap.

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1343. Beaches

Wherever you go in the water in Treasure Beach, it's best to have a companion and to inquire with locals to ensure it is safe. Treasure Beach maintains a growing list of locals who have fallen victim to the hungry sea, which can have strong currents and undertows.

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Frenchman's Beach is a great beach for body surfing when the sea is a little rough. There is coral aplenty toward the edges of this beach, even in shallow waters. The safest spot to swim is directly in front of Golden Sands Guest House.

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Calabash Bay Beach is a fishing beach with a large, clear, sandy area good for swimming. The safest spot to swim is in front of Calabash House before you reach the boats. Great Bay also has a decent beach for a dip.

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Bebe's Place (www.treasuretours.com, US$50\75) has three cottages, dubbed Yellow House, Blue House, and Brown House, with single and queen-size beds and fans. Occasional dance parties are held next door at Wild Onion.

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Ashanti Village is a great budget option with a one-bedroom (US$45) and a two-bedroom (US$65) seaview cottage and four additional rooms (US$35) in the main house. The rooms come with a private bath, small fridge, fan, and electric kettles, with screens on the windows. The cottages have equipped kitchens and verandas with sea views.

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1348. Ital Rest

Ital Rest (contact Frankie and Jean, tel. 876/863-3481, US$40/night, US$250/week) is about as roots as you can get. The property has limited electricity supplied by solar panels to the smart wood cabins, which are an easy walk from several sandy coves. Mosquito nets cover the beds to keep the bugs out at night.

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1349. Nuestra Casa

Nuestra Casa (Billy's Bay, tel. 876/965-0152, roger@billybay.com, www.billysbay.com, US$45/50 low/high season) is a villa-style guesthouse run by Lillian Chamberlain and her son Roger. It rents three rooms, two with a double bed, and a third with two twin beds.

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Wild Pines (www.treasuretoursjamaica.com, US$65) is a two-bedroom, two-bath wooden cottage near Great Pond set in a charming garden. The two-story building has a bedroom on each floor with a queen-size and a single bed, and a common kitchen at the ground level.

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